https://www.notion.so/Kick-Off-8733d2cbc767469c9d25c7c3eb7a7eda

Deze week moeten we 150 woorden schrijven over elektromagneten en daar zelf een beeld bij maken. Deze week zijn Anoush en ik de editors van deze zine. Daarnaast leren we hoe elektriciteit werkt en hoe we een speaker maken.

Ik had dit eerst in Notion gemaakt maar de export ging niet goed. Ik heb het zo goed mogelijk geprobeerd over te brengen. Toch denk ik dat deze pagina waarschijnlijk overzichtelijker is op notion: https://www.notion.so/Week-2-Electromagnets-a26a78eb7b0448a7a5e6a19d70c3591e

Style Zine

https://www.notion.so/Electronics-f660baccddf54b36a9c52986eba6495c

Voor de zine hebben we blauw papier en rode of oranje inkt gekozen. We zochten kleuren die pasten bij electronica. Maar blauw en roze printen was al gedaan voor de safety zine dus we wilden graag wat anders. Rood en blauw inkt leek daar te veel op maar toen kwam Loes met het idee dat je ook blauw papier kon gebruiken en dan met een kleur kon printen. Dit vonden we wel gaaf en dus gingen we op zoek naar voorbeelden. Hiervan hadden we er een aantal gevonden en die hebben we laten zien aan onze klasgenoten. Zelf hadden we blauw papier gehaald in de winkel. We wilden de cover wat donkerder blauw hebben zodat die wat meer opviel. Tijdens het printen kwamen we er alleen achter dat we te weinig papier gekocht hadden. Dat was niet zo slim en hebben we ander papier uit het lokaal moeten pakken. Nu zitten er wat verschillende kleuren blauw door onze zine heen, maar ik vind het eigenlijk wel een leuk effect hebben. Anoush vind het alleen wel wat minder. Voor de volgende keer zullen we hier dus beter op moeten letten.

Inleiding

Deze week hebben we besproken hoe het is om zelf wat te maken en hoe. We hebben hierover twee teksten gelezen, "Getting Lost and Unlearning Certainty: Material Encounters in an Electronic Craft Practice" van David Cole & Hannah Perner-Wilson en "Unmaking: 5 Anexieties" van NW. Daarnaast hebben we informatie opgedaan over elektronica. Hoe werkt het en hoe kunnen we zelf een stroomkring maken. Uiteindelijk heeft iedereen een eigen speaker kunnen maken. Uit al deze onderdelen hebben we inspiratie kunnen halen voor onze tekst en beeld die hierin zijn te lezen.

Engels

Preface

This week we discussed what it is like to make something and how. We've read two texts about this: "Detachment: 5 fears" from NW and "Getting lost and releasing certainty: material encounters in an electronic craft practice" by David Cole & Hannah Perner-Wilson. We have also gained information about electronics. How does it work and how can we create a circuit ourselves? Eventually everyone made their own speaker. From all of these things we've gained inspiration for our text and image, which you can take a look at in this zine.

Spreads from:

Andrei

Anoush

Britt

Daniel

Desiree

Duncan

Dusanka

Kaz

Kim

Laura

Summer

Thijs

Editors:

Anoush

Desiree

Tot slot

Is het niet leuk om te lezen hoe iedereen verschillend met de opdracht is omgegaan? Iedereen heeft dezelfde stof gelezen en hetzelfde gemaakt en besproken en toch heeft iedereen dit op een andere manier ingestoken. Dat is wat het is om een maker te zijn.

Engels

Isn't it nice to read how everyone has dealt with the assignment differently? Everyone has read the same material and made and discussed the same and yet everyone has inserted this in a different way. That is what it is to be a maker.

Beeld voor de inleiding en slot

Ik heb ervoor gekozen om allemaal beelden te pakken van anderen door de zine om alvast een voorproefje te geven.

Verhaal voor eigen spread

Eigen kit maken

Eigenlijk kan je alles in de wereld zelf maken met het juiste materiaal. Soms is het makkelijker om iets nieuws te kopen, maar vaak is het leuker om iets zelf te maken. Meestal begin je pas wat zelf te maken als je een probleem heb en dat op wil lossen, maar er nog niet iets zelf voor bestaat of wel bestaat maar veelte duur is. In deze tijden kan je opzoek gaan online of er andere mensen zijn die zelf een oplossing hebben gemaakt, bijv op YouTube of op een blog. Misschien kom je wel een doe het zelf kitje tegen die je kan bestellen online om zo snel en gemakkelijk het probleem op te lossen. Dit heb ik gedaan voor het repareren van mijn eigen scherm van mijn mobiel. Je weet dan wat je moet doen en met welke materialen zodat je het tot een goed einde kan brengen.

Als je op een gegeef moment nog steeds niks kan vinden wat jou helpt voor je oplossing kan je geïrriteerd raken. Ik zelf kom dan meestal op de meest creatieve ideeën. Je komt zoveel tegen online wat het misschien allemaal net niet is, maar wat jou wel inspiratie kan geven. Je komt dan in de "fuck it' mode, niks boeit je en je gaat zelf maar aan de slag met je eigen ontwerp. Dit had ik bij een sieraden opberger. Ik wilden mijn sieraden niet verstoppen want dan draag ik het niet maar ik wilde het ook niet in het open neerleggen want dan kwam er stof op. Ik ging online kijken naar iets waarbij ik dat niet meer zou hebben maar kon niks vinden. Uiteindelijk ben ik zelf naar de winkel gegaan om te kijken voor een plank en schroefjes. Zo heb ik mijn eigen sieraden hanger in elkaar gezet waar ik heel blij mee ben.

In het engels

Making your own kit

It is possible to make everything that exists yourself, as long as you have the right materials. Sometimes it's possible to buy something new, but often it is more fun to make something yourself. Usually you only start to make something yourself if you have a problem that you want to solve, but a proper solution does not exist yet or is too expensive. If this is the case, you could look online for other people who might have found a solution themselves, for example on YouTube or on a blog. You may come across a "do it yourself kit" to solve the problem easily and quickly. By this, you know what to do and what materials you need, so you can bring it to a successful end. For example, through this method I was able to replace the screen of my mobile phone all by myself.

If at a given moment you still can't find anything useful to get to a solution, you could get frustrated. When that happens, I usually come up with the most creative ideas. Even though you come across so many things online that are just not good enough to be helpful, it could give you the inspiration you need. You then enter the "fuck it" mode, everything else is more or less useless so you decide to design something on your own and make that a reality. This happened when I wanted to find a way to store my jewellery. I wanted to have my jewellery in sight, because otherwise I won’t wear it, but I didn’t want to put them in the open because I don’t want dust on it. I went online to look for something that would live up to those wishes, but could not find anything. In the end I put together my own jewellery holder that I am very happy with.

Beeld voor eigen zine

Files Zine

Spreads elektronica.ai, deze file is te groot voor gitbook.

Spreads elektronica 2.0.pdf, net als deze. Deze bestanden zijn wel te openen op Notion. Die link staat bovenaan.

Omdat Summer deze week ziek was, kregen we haar spread later heb hebben we die later geprint.

Feedback text

Printen

Heb ik samen met mijn partner Anoush gedaan. Hierbij zijn we soms bijgestaan door Oliver en Nadia. Daarnaast hadden we dit al een keer eerder gedaan en toen heb ik het samen met Thijs en Daniël uitgevogeld.

Ik had dit in notion gemaakt. Daarom staat eerst hieronder de tekst en daarna daaronder hetzelfde met foto's.

1. Om uit te vogelen wie op welke bladzijde komt en hoe we dat moesten printen hebben we een inslagschema gemaakt.

2. Daarna hebben we alles aan de hand van de voorbeeld zine naast elkaar gezet in illustrator. De achterkant links en de voorkant rechts van hetzelfde blad.

3. Dit wilde we vanaf een illustrator bestand printen maar het overzetten van laptop naar computer van de Riso. Daarom hebben we er uiteindelijk een pdf bestand van gemaakt en dat op de computer van de Riso gedaan. Dat werkte wel.

4. Je opent het pdf bestand op de computer en klikt de juiste pagina aan die je wilt printen.

5. Dan klik je op de printknop en dan opent zich een aantal opties.

6. Klik boven aan op properties.

7. Bij tabblad "Basis" geef je de ligging van de pagina aan en zet je preview en edit aan.

8. Bij tabblad "Coloring" geef je bij "Dual-Color print" de kleuren aan die in de drum zitten. Bij "master-making color" geef je aan welke drum er op dat moment moet printen. Als je maar 1 kleur gebruik zet je hem na dit in te stellen op "Mono-color print" en geef je daar nog een keer aan welke kleur je wil printen.

9. Als je klaar ben met instellen klik je op oke en daarna op print. Dan opent zich de preview.

10. Als de preview je design goed laat zien klik je op file > print. Dan komt er een pop-up en daar klik je weer op print. Vervolgens klik je op oke.

11. Hij maakt nu de master. Heb geduld, het kan best een tijdje duren. Als je de vorige stap nog een keer doet dan gaat hij dezelfde master opnieuw maken ook al staat het niet in de wachtrij. Kortom wacht 2 min voordat je een nieuwe master maakt.

12. Als hij de master print kan je er meerdere uitdraaien. Dit doe je door de cijfers op de Riso printer. Kijk wel uit. Hij staat standaard op 1, dus als je daarna iets neerzet dan kan er al snel 130 komen te staan en dat is een beetje veel.

13. Sluit daarna de preview en kies een nieuw blad of pas de kleur aan voor de 2e master.

14. Als je aan de andere kant van het blad wil printen, moet je de tekst leesbaar voor je houden en de bladen dan een slag naar achteren kantelen. Zo worden de bladen goed geprint en kan je allebei de bladzijdes goedom lezen. Test dit altijd eerst even voordat je de rest print. Wij zijn gaan printen vanuit pdf, het kan zijn dat hij bij kopiëren of illustrator anders print.

Binden

Voor een proef binding hebben we alle bladen eerst op volgorde gelegd. Daarna hebben we met de nietmachine in het midden drie nietjes ingeschoten. Daarna gingen we het boekje dubbelvouwen en goed aandrukken zodat het plat kwam te liggen. In de papier snijder hebben we de uiteindes wat afgeknipt zodat het een strak boekje werd.

Hoe werkt de papiersnijder?

Hierbij heeft Oliver geholpen.

1. Doe de klep omhoog en leg het boekje met de rug tegen de achterwand.

2. Duw de draaihendel een beetje naar voren zodat hij vast zit en draai de achterwand naar voren of naar achteren. De rode laser laat zien waar hij gaat snijden. Zet de achterwand op de goede stand zodat hij de juiste hoeveelheid eraf snijd.

3. Als je tevreden bent met de positie trek je de hendel weer los zodat hij slap hangt en de achterwant niet meer kan verschuiven.

4. Doe de klep dicht.

5. Houd elke hand op een van de hendels en druk ze gelijktijdig omlaag. Hij gaat nu snijden.

6. Laat de hendels los, doe de klep omhoog en haal je boekje eruit. Hij is klaar.

Ik wilde hier nog foto's bijvoegen. Dit wilde ik doen als we Summer haar spread hadden en alles gingen snijden. Maar door corona hebben we daar geen kans voor gehad.

Uitleg elektriciteit

We kregen uitleg over elektriciteit door middel van kleine opdrachtjes. Met kopertape moest je een bepaalde route afleggen. De tape geleid alleen aan de bovenkant, dus daar moest je ook de geleider en led aan koppelen. Onder de klem zit de batterij met 3 Volt. De bovenkant van de batterij moet de ene uiteinde aanraken en de andere kant de andere uiteinden. Het is belangrijk dat de kring geen andere manier vind om een rondje te maken. Als dit gebeurd dan slaat hij elementen over en kan er kortsluiting komen. Hierdoor werkt het niet meer. Het zwarte stukje is velostat, en reguleerd de weerstand. Hoe harder je drukt, hoe minder weerstand en hoe feller het licht. Daarnaast zal het altijd het pad van de lichtste weerstand kiezen of als de weerstand gelijk is, de power halveren.

Daarnaast hebben we ook geoefend met het meten van bepaalde waardes. R = restistance en wordt gemeten in ohm. V = volt, gelijkstroom en daarmee kan je meten hoeveel stroom een bepaald object gebruikt. I = ampere en dat is hoeveel stroom er door de hele kring heengaat. Het meten heb ik veel met Anoush gedaan en met behulp van Loes.

Ohm's Law

Ohm's law gaat over de relatie tussen volt, weerstand en current. Als je een van de drie niet weet dan valt dat uit te reken, omdat ze altijd in verhouding zijn met elkaar. Bij de opdracht met de dimmer kon je uitrekenen hoeveel weerstand de velostat had, namelijk tussen de 50 en de 1700 Ohm. Daarnaast zit er ook een weerstand stukje tussen die 100 ohm weerstand heeft. De batterij geeft 3 volt mee waarvan de LED 2 volt gebruikt. Dit houdt in dat er 1 volt over is. Als je deze twee waardes heb kan je de laatste waarde, de current, uitrekenen. Om te weten welke formule je moet gebruiken, kan je de piramide hiernaast gebruiken. Je legt je vinger voor de letter die je uit moet rekenen. De formules die je dan krijgt is V=I*R, I=V/R en R=V/I. Op dit moment willen we de current weten en dat is de I. Volt is 1 en de weerstand kan verschillen tussen de 150 en 1800 Ohm. 1/150= 0,006A = 6mA. 1/1800=0,0005A = 0,5mA. Als je dus twee andere waardes heb, dan kan je aan de hand van de piramide kijken welke formule je nodig heb om zo de ontbrekende waarde uit te rekenen.

Schematic layout of circuits

Speaker maken

Ik had dit in notion gemaakt. Daarom staat eerst hieronder de tekst en daarna daaronder hetzelfde met foto's.

1. Eerst doe je het blokje en de vijf spikes in de motherboard. Daarna soldeer je die aan de onderkant vast.

   Hoe soldeer je?

   1. Smeer wat rode soldeergeleider op de plek die je wil solderen.

   2. Je wil kleine tipi's om de spikes heen hebben. Dit doe je door de soldeerbout op een spike te laten rusten.

   3. Daarna moet je het tin tegen de spike laten rusten totdat het smelt.

   4. Als het tin smelt haal je het tin weg en laat je de bout nog 2 sec rusten.

   5. Je heb nu mooie tipi's en de spikes zitten goed vast aan het motherboard.

2. Knip de 'krokodil' (draad met grijpers aan de uiteindes) door de midden. Haal een stukje plastic aan de uiteinden weg zodat je het draad ziet. Draai het uiteinden en stop elk uiteinden in een van de gaten van het blokje. Draai de schroef bovenop naar beneden zodat het draad vastzit.

3. Draai daarna de jackplug los en pak 2 draadjes. Knip het stokje van de draadjes af. Haal wat van het plastic eraf zodat je het draad ziet. Draai het draad en doe dat door de gaatjes van de de AUX en die soldeer je vast. De lange plaat is de min en de korte is de plus. Dit kan je beter aangeven met een stikker omdat je dat na het dichtdraaien niet meer kan zien.

4. Draai de jackplug weer vast. Kijk onder aan de motherboard waar de plus en waar de min is. Doe de goede stekker van de AUX in de juiste staaf.

5. Zet nog twee losse draadjes in de laatste twee uiteinden.

6. Maak een ontwerp voor je coil in Illustrator. De coil moet op een oppervlakte van 10cm bij 10cm gemaakt worden. Hierbij moet je wel opletten op dat de resistance tussen de 3 en de 8 moet zitten. Dus het moet niet te lang maar ook niet te kort. Je kan het een fill geven en dat met de lasersnijder in kopertape uitsnijden. Maar je kan ook een lijn maken en illustrator en dat de lasersnijder daar streepjes van maakt in een stof en je dat over borduurt.

7. Eerst heb ik een tekening gemaakt op papier. Hierbij heb ik goed opgelet dat de lijnen elkaar niet raken. Daarna heb ik een foto gemaakt van mijn ontwerp. Die heb ik ingeladen in Illustrator. Je selecteert dan de foto, object > image trace > make and expand. Dan pakt hij de lijnen van de foto en heb je een aaneensluitende lijn. Dan selecteer je de lijnen, object > path > simplify. Dan worden de lijnen wat smoother en moet je het zelf nog wat ronder maken met de pathfinder. Dit is belangrijk omdat de vinylsnijder niet altijd goede hoeken kan maken.

8. Daarna zet je het illustrator bestand op een UBS stick en stop je die in de computer van de vinylsnijder.

   Hoe gebruik je de vinylsnijder?

   Loes heeft mij uitgelegd hoe het werkt.

   1. Stop het juiste mesje in de vinylsnijder. Wit is voor stickers en groen is voor koperpapier. Niet draaien aan het mesje.

   2. Leg het materiaal recht ertussen (kan gemakkelijk door de lijnen ervoor, anders snijd hij het schuin). Zorg ervoor dat het materiaal boven de scanners (er zit er een voor en een achter) en onder de wielen. De wielen kunnen alleen geplaatst worden onder de witte/ grip stukjes en kan je aan de achterkant verstellen.

   3. Als het papier vastligt dan trek je de hendel (links) naar voren en dan zit het vast.

   4. Geef aan wat voor papier je heb: roll, piece of edge. Als je dat heb ingesteld dan scant het apparaat hoe groot het materiaal is.

   5. Open Cut Studio en daarna het illustrator bestand. Sluit niks in het illustrator bestand. Als je dat per ongeluk wel doet dan kan je de pop up terug halen door naar window > extentions > Roland CutStudios.

   6. Bij de normale instellingen staat het op output all lines en dat is vaak goed. Je kan het alsnog veranderen als je dat wil. Als je ontwerp goed is klik je op de grote R knop rechts boven.

   7. Je komt dan in de Cutstudio. Je moet de maten die in de vinylsnijder staan in de computer zetten. Dit doe je door file > cutting setup > property > get from machine > oke > oke.

   8. Stel op de vinylsnijder in wat de force en speed is. Dit ligt aan het materiaal. Je kan zien wat goed is voor elk materiaal op de waaier. Om het in te stellen klik je 2x op menu > pijltje naar onder voor condition > pijl naar rechts (is oke), je ziet dan force staan met een waarde > pijl naar rechts (is oke), je kan nu dingen aanpassen door de pijlen naar boven en onder te gebruiken > klik op enter als je de juiste waarde heb. > Klik pijl omlaag om hetzelfde te doen voor de speed.

   9. Klik op menu om terug te gaan en houd de knop orgin even ingedrukt. Hij slaat dan alle instellingen op.

   10. Doe eerst een test voordat je je design laat uitsnijden. Doe dit door even de knop test ingedrukt te houden. Klik op het pijltje om het materiaal naar voren te halen. Als je het rondje eraf kan halen en de vierkant blijft zitten dan zijn de instellingen goed. Zo niet dan moet je de instellingen aanpassen. Zet daarna het mes weer terug op zijn plek. Wel is het handig als je het startpunt iets opschuift, naast de testpatroon. Hou daarna orgin weer ingedrukt zodat hij de nieuwe instellingen en plek opslaat.

   11. Als alles klopt dan kan je in de Cutstudio op "Cutting" klikken en dan op oke. Dan snijd hij automatisch je design.

   12. Als hij klaar, doe je de hendel weer naar achter om het materiaal eruit te halen. Als het materiaal eruit is klik je weer op menu en zet je het witte mesje er terug in.

   13. Knip alles rondom je ontwerp eraf en verwijder de omleiding, zodat alles behalve je ontwerp eraf is (er ligt een pincet in het bakje achter de vinylsnijder om alles voorzichtig te verwijderen). Plak over je ontwerp tape met zwakke lijm (staat links onder de vinylsnijder). Verwijder vervolgens voorzichtig de tape zodat je ontwerp aan de tape blijft plakken. Zo blijft je design goed en kan je hem makkelijk plakken op het gene wat je wil. Als je hem wil bewaren, leg je de plakfolie over de sticker en vouw je hem dicht.

   Hoe test je je ontwerp?

   1. Doe de AUX kabel in je mobiel en speel muziek af.

   2. Doe de krokodillen aan het begin en eindpunt van je coil en leg hem op een beker.

   3. Zet van de machine de zwarte aan de ground en de rode aan de andere.

   4. Stel de machine in op 5 Volt en 0,250 Ampere.

   5. Klik op output en hou magneten bij je coil.

   6. Luister of je je muziek hoort uit de speaker.

   Hoe meet je de weerstand?

   1. Doe de krokodillen aan het begin en eindpunt van je coil.

   2. Zet de draaiknop op 200 Ohm en lees af wat er staat.

9. Mijn ontwerp heb ik op een stukje bruinpapier geplakt. Deze heb ik gekozen omdat het minder stevig was dan het stevige gekleurde papier en steviger dan crêpe-papier. Ik was benieuwd wat dit zou doen. Hier heb ik vervolgens stroom op gezet. Ik kon de muziek horen maar het was heel zacht. Na het meten zagen we ook dat er 0,1 Ohm (weerstand) op zat. Terwijl hij eigenlijk tussen de 4 en de 8 Ohm moet hebben.

10. Om de weerstand te verhogen kan je een andere geleider kiezen, ander ontwerp of het ontwerp vergroten. Ik heb ervoor gekozen om de banen wat dunnen te maken. Dit had ik door gestuurd naar de vinylsnijder maar doordat de banen zo dun waren liep de machine vast. Ik heb nog wat veranderd aan de instellingen maar het wilde niet lukken. Dit was erg frustrerend, maar ben daarna maar wat anders gaan proberen. (Vergeten om foto's te maken).

11. Ik ben gaan experimenteren met borduren, omdat andere daarmee bezig waren en ik was er benieuwd naar. Ik heb voor het touw "Egypto Metal' wat 10 Ohm per meter heeft. Ik heb dit gekozen omdat het minder weerstand had dan een andere. Ik ben gewoon begonnen zonder echt een ontwerp in mijn hoofd te hebben. Uiteindelijk ging ik tijdens het ontwerp meten hoeveel Ohm ik op dat moment had, hierbij hielpen Kai en Anoush mij. Ik zat toen op 2 Ohm en daarna heb ik mijn ontwerp verdubbeld. Uiteindelijk zat ik op 4,7 Ohm. Daar heb ik het bij gelaten. Er kwam wel muziek uit maar weer heel zacht. Ik denk dat dit komt omdat ik niet echt windingen heb. Je zou dus het ontwerp aan moeten passen om er meer geluid uit te krijgen.

Idee van hoe je de speaker kan inzetten

• Aan de zijkant van je bed om te helpen met inslaap vallen

Show and Tell

Reflectie

Ik heb geleerd over stroomkringen, het meten van bijv. weerstand, solderen, vinylsnijder, Risoprinter en de papiersnijder. Kortom best wel veel. Ik vond het maken van de speakers heel leuk om te doen. Bij mij is er alleen niet heel goed geluid uit gekomen. Dit zou ik de volgende keer aanpassen door meer windingen te maken. Ik zit erover na te denken om een nieuw ontwerp te maken met meer vierkanten. Ik heb er namelijk voor gekozen om niet de normale standaard ronde coil te maken maar iets anders. Dit wilde ik graag omdat ik dat andere iets te voor de hand liggend vond. Op het laatst had ik iets gemaakt met hoeken maar had niet heel veel windingen omdat ik eigenlijk al teveel weerstand opbouwde. Ik wil mijn ontwerp aanpassen met vierkantjes en meer windingen en dan een draad die nog minder weerstand bied. Maar dat komt misschien nog in week 9.

Met de Riso printer vond ik het vooral leuk om alles uit te denken. Ik vind dat heel leuk en interessant om te doen. Wanneer je welk blad moet printen en de achterkant van dat blad. Voorderest is het bedienen van de Riso printer best gemakkelijk als je weet hoe het werkt. Voor de volgende keer weet ik wel dat ik iets meer geduld moet hebben. Hij is niet zo snel en je wil gauw te vlug.

This week we are busy with different type of structures and how to change their values. We have to write 150 words about this or about the reading material that was about thinking differently than you are used too. Next to that you have to make an original image that fits your text. This week the editors for the zine are Thijs en Daniël.

Zine design

https://www.notion.so/Week-4-Zine-3edb24f3fbd04c4881028640e2425cf5

My text

This week we talked about looking at things with a different perspective and breaking your tradition of a process you well know and doing something different. I think this is a very hard thing to do. Because when you don't have a lot of time, you'll fall into old patterns. I think you can only do this is when there is a very creative working environment and you have a lot of freedom. It also depends on your assignment. Do you have a problem that you’ve fixed before? Or a new one that needs a new approach? Cause with the second one it’s easier to figure out something different. To find a solution that fits that problem exactly right. I think that when you’re looking at new possibilities, you will find them. But you’ll need to have space and time to do this. This week for our own assignment, we do have time for this. The only problem is that I don’t know how the laser cutter works yet. This means that I look at it with my first perspective and I can’t do something different. What is new, is that you have to use the illustrator program different. Really use lines and looking at the space between them. You have to keep this in mind when you design. What I also figured out is that material can change the outcome of your design. Like will it be able to bend, or will it break easily? All of these points make you think differently about your design when you work with, in this case, the lasercutter. It is fun to figure out the endless possibilities, just by using it a lot. And after a few tries, do something new.

Desiree van Dam

My visuals

My files

End product

Assignment 1 - individual

Create your own sample book in which you address the following aspects:

• Explore what the assigned contrast in material properties entails (this can be in the form of mindmaps, collages, moodboards etc.)

• Explore what the available flat sheets materials offer and what material(s) would suit your assignment best (share your results with each other). You can also bring your own material(s).

• Show iterations on the process, work towards a range of experiments that explores the two extremes of your contrast and various stages in between. Document your process and use a template to document the material properties, machine and settings used.

• Bundle your experiments in a sample book which displays your material exploration. Your sample book contains your interpretation of the assigned contrast, your experiments with various materials and techniques (at least 2 iterations with several gradations), and your final range of gradually moving from one extreme of the contrast towards the other end of the contrast (at least 5 gradations).

• Your sample book displays experimenting with the laser cutter. Use the laser cutter at least for one iteration with several gradations.

• Book binding is part of the process of creating your sample book.

• Document all the steps, tricks, tips, settings and outcomes as described on your gitbook documentation page. Please don't forget to document small experiments that did you perhaps did not include in your sample book (such as cutting/etching, folding/forming experiments).

Explaination changing material

For this assignment we pulled some cards with two contrast. First i picked brittle and flexible but later i was hooked by dynamic and static. Bros en flexibel / Dynamisch en statisch.

I found the assignment very hard too understand. But i finally decided to go for dynamic and static. I see static as something that unmoving or in straight lines, that is very still and with sharp corners, a bit building like. I see dynamic as something that moves in all kind of directions, round corners and flexible. Dynamic has a bit more movement and 3D. To express this I made an Moodboard which is seen below. I used magazines for the images.

You have to pick a material or look at more kinds of material to see when something is dynamic, when something is static, when something is dynanic and static and everything in between. In the beginning I decided to work with the material cardbox. But after the first experiment I decided to go for thick paper.

Ideas/ notes

Static = Triangle - box - folding worm - hat circle thingy - laser printer field = Dynamic

Can you do the second iteration with a different material to see which one is more static or dynamic? Maybe wood, paper or plexiglas.

What kind of materials exist?

Wood, cardbox, paper, creppapier, golfkarton, plexiglas, plastic.

Process iterations

Static

I already figured I wanted to make an triangle. This because I consider that very static. I found a figure online that I put into illustrator and cut the figure with the laser cutter in cardbox. (Anoush helped me figure out the settings of the laser cutter). I used differend settings for the cutting. I had a kiss cutting with two different power settings an a dotted line. After that i figured that cardbox is hard to bend. When you try to bend it, it breaks a bit. The breaking is less when you use a dotted line, but it's still not ideal. So I did the same experiment with paper, an iteration. This worked better because it wasn't breaking and was still very strong because it is a triangle. For this experiment i also used a kiss cutting and a dotted line to make the folding lines. I dont know which one I like better because all of them fold well. In the end I think I like the kiss cutting better because it looks cleaner after you fold it. I'm content with my first try of making something static. Now I'm gonna look for other experiments.

Source triangle: https://crafts.lovetoknow.com/paper-crafts/how-fold-paper-pyramid

Between static and an mix from static and dynamic

I looked at Pinterest to find some inpiration. There I found a kind of tower that you can fold together. It looked really cool and I wanted to try it. I found a blue print and traced it in illustrator. When I kiss cutted the design I started to fold it. It was a bit harder than I expected and it didn't look as good as the example. So I tried to make another and made this one bigger. It didn't help. So I decided to do something different and found two other blue prints, for some kind of shell. I wanted to try it and one was not ideal for the laser cutter because it goes really narrow at the top but the other one worked. Maybe not the way it's supposed to but I think it looks good. I put this between static and an mix from static and dynamic, because it still has corners but is also a bit round, and it has no movement. If you want to do the one other one, I think you'll have to make it bigger and without the laser cutter. I was a bit annoyed when I was folding because I didn't know how to perfectly fold them. But I did it my own way and i like the outcome.

Bronnen: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/595460381969740171/, http://www.ams.org/publicoutreach/math-in-the-media/mmarc-09-2007-media https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/318348267407643743/

Mix from static and dynamic

I saw something that looked like this (mix from static and dynamic) in the slides form Sam. I looked it up and traced the lines in Illustrator. With the laser cutter I cut it out and started to fold. In the end I glued the pieces together and had something static that moved. It has sharp corners but also round in the center. The first one had 5 corners like a star. I wonderd wat would happen if it had more corners. So I made another one with 7 corners and I made it a bit bigger. You could tell this one is stronger and can probobly cary more weight. I really like them. I like that they look static, a big building like, and have a lot of sharp corners, but are still dynamic because it's still round and it can move. That's why I put it in the middle of the five gradients. I watched a video on how to fold it so I was not frustrated.

Bronnen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ghzOXOzido, https://www.pnas.org/content/115/9/2032, https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/523965737872502754/, https://nl.pinterest.com/pin/328199891567215046/, https://www.flickr.com/photos/origomi/40164300005,

Between mix from static and dynamic and dynamic

I looked on Pintrest for some inspiration and found an interesting image. It was an egg made out of lose pieces of paper. I thought it was really easy to make that for myself but I was wrong. I looked at the picure and tried to make the pieces. But when I cutted all the pieces, they didn't fit togheter all that well. I looked further online to find something that would help me and I found a blueprint. I downloaded it and then cut it, but even then it was still hard to figure out how it works. This was very frustrating. Eventually I figured it out. It surprised me how strong it was, it is unbreakable. In addition, it can still go completely flat. The complete item and movement, I find stil a bit static. It moves is lines en its still flat. That's why I put it in this order. For an iteration I thought about making it a square. I was glad I knew how to put it together now. This worked but was less stable than the egg. This surprised me. Maybe it is firmer around because it has fewer pointed corners and can collect more.

Bron: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12n4KyAywOom9LSDi5-Owu9aT1QsUC_1K, https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/595460381969684336/

Dynamic

I went online to look for some inspiration and found an interesting image on Pinterest. They cut paper so thin and in a kind of pattern that it could go up. I thought this looked so cool that I wanted to make it myself. I thought it looked pretty easy but it was accually a bit more difficult. I made some circles within eachother and set the laser cutter on a dotted line. This did not do the job. This was annoying but I figured this was because the lines weren't rightfully structured, the piramid didn't go up. Sam at that point told me there were some examples in the lab as well, so i took a look at those. Then Hank told me there was already a template for that form on the computer and I could use that. He looked that up for me (It's called PAPER LAMP PLEASE USE ME.ai) and we started to cut it. This did work and looked really awesome. I was happy. The only thing is that we adjusted the size a little bit and made it smaller. But that way the paper also became more fragile because the cuts were closer togheter.

For an iteration I want to play with different structures. I found some examples on pintest that look really interesting. I really wanted to try a spiral. I thought this would be easy, but I was wrong. I worked really hard with Kaz to get it right and it was really frustrating. It took multiple approaches but after a few hours I got it right. I was really happy about the end result. You really have to do everything by hand. First make one spiral and then make the others one by one a bit smaller until you reach the middle. At first we tried to make one spiral and copy it, but that they go over the same lane and it doesn't work. I made one with 8 spirals like the example, Kaz made one with 5 spirals. That one also looks really awesome. The one form Kaz is made from a different material, and was a lot firmer. The difference between the dome and the spiral is that the dome stays up by itself but the spiral needs help to stay up.

Bronnen: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/595460381969691901/

Template machines used

I found out about the settings myself. Anoush helped me understand the machine the first time. Micky/ Andrei had also given a tutorial in the beginning.

Sample book

In the sample book I explained how I saw my two contrasts, what kind of material I used, how I came to my experiments and how to do the experiments yourself.

For my sample book I wanted to use the paper that I made my experiments with. But for the cover I wanted something more solid. So I brought some cardbox form home and put that on the front page. I engraved the front so it looks more like a cover. I think it looks very awesome and I'm very happy with the end product.

Binding

We've gotten an workshop on how to bind a book from Bregitta Kramer. This was really interesting and fun to do. Here we were told about different practices. The cahier stitch we tried ourselfs. I wanted to do this for my sample book. But with an hardcover and protective cover so the samples stay good in place.

For the binding of my sample book I used stapels, and I made a hole at the top through which a string comes through as a bookmark. I choose this method because I used heavy paper and I had an heavy cover so I was afraid that the binding wouldn't hold. That's why I choose to staple my book first and then maybe I can still add the rope later which goes on top of the stapels, so you can't see them. I wanted to do this in the last week but because of corona I'm at home. The paper is pretty thick and I don't have awl at home and I'm scared of ruining the sample book. So I'm going to keep it this way.

Show and Tell

Reflectie

I learned more about the laser cutter and the material, I feel comfortable now to use it. Also I learned more about folding paper. It is really fun to do and you can do a lot of interesting things with it. Next time I should do maybe a bit more research and do more different things. After I was finished with this assignment, I found more interesting things that I could do that maybe would be more awesome. Also next time, I would sooner ask for help from the Makerslab employees. They know a lot and they can access the database. Working together with other classmates is also really nice. You can learn a lot from eachother.

This week we are getting to know the 3D printers and I'm an team with Thijs. We have to write 150 words about this or about the reading material that was about what you can do with the 3D printer and where the credits should go to/ who is responsible. Next to that you have to make an original image that fits your text. This week the editors for the zine are Kaz and Duncan.

Zine Design

My text

This week we talked about the responsibilities of 3D prints and the impact it has on people, society and the environment. I think that everybody can decide for themselves if they want to have credit for something that they've made, and that other people have to respect their wishes. I think the responsibility also lies by the maker of the design. It’s your job to tell people where things could go wrong, or that you haven't tested it yet. In other words, be open and truthful. Then people know to be aware and take precautions. I wouldn’t mind if people were using or changing my designs as long as they give me credit for it. I would also like it if they tell me that they’ve used or changed it, so I can see how many people like it and how the design could be improved. If you change some of the work you copy from others, you’ll have to tell others in the credits that you’ve changed the design and from who.

Desiree van Dam

My visuals

My file

End Product

Assignment 0 - with the entire group

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads (minimum 150 words + original imagery).

Reflect on what your responsibilities are as a maker/designer for making objects and the impact they have on people, society and the environment. Create your own maker manifesto. Discuss how you used this in your making process this week, and how it’s (an aspect of) this week’s work.

Assignment 1 - individual

Document the in-class assignment on your gitbook documentation page, include the tips and tricks that helped you understand Fusion 360, Cura and the 3D-printer.

Write for each mold a tutorial with instructions. Include useful images with annotations to show each step of the design and print process. Another person should be able to follow your steps and reproduce your design.

Assignment 2 - in pairs

Design and print 3 different molds for the open material archive that can be used for casting material samples.

Requirements: all 4 parts should fit on the printing bed of the Ultimaker 2 (20 x 20 cm). So each part is about 8cm x 8cm, height can vary.

Mold 1

2.5D Metamold object, for flexible material texture. You will print the object itself and experiment with textures for the casted material. We will use the vacuum former to create mold of the mold.

Mold 2

2.5D Metamold for casting hard material texture. This metamold will be used to create a mold by casting flexible material to create the mold. This flexible mold will be used to cast a hard material.

Mold 3

3D mold (2 parts) of a (poly)spericon or other geometric object. The design should include an airhole and a pouring hole for casting. The design should include fixtures for exact part placement, or the two parts of the mold can be nested.

20 tests

Later in the week we also found out that the Ultimaker with an square was not calibrated correctly. So that's probobly why the design failed.

I also wanted to finish this assignment in the last week but because of corona that plan failed so this is al I did.

Fusion 360

Mold 1 - Monkey

Thijs was making the first mold in Fusion 360 which was an monkey. It looks really cool.

For the 3D model, Thijs wanted to make monkey's face. To make it, he used two 3D spheres and connected them to each other (joined). Than cut it in half by using a square and delete the bottom half. For the eyes and nose he added spheres as well (joined). To make the nose holes, he used circles and used the 'cut' function to excavate in the bigger sphere.

Additionaly, he made a mouth and eyebrows with lines. He added a circle in the middle and than a sweep on them (I helped him with that), so they appear as 3D tubes. He made the ears with toruses and attached them to the head.

Tips and ticks

• Maybe you can read this on Thijs his page.

Mold 2 - Zig Zag Surface

I made the second mold that was an mold within an mold for the plasic assignment in two weeks. This was about making an structure in the plastic. So I made an round design with zig zags, when the first zig would be on top and then the next was under the surface. This goes back and forth.

First I made an square from 8 by 8 cm and extruded that up 2cm. Than I made another square from 7 by 7 cm and cut it down by 1 cm and with a degree of -20. I gave the corners an angele so it's easier to remove the inside when you fill it. This is the outer mold. For the actual mold I made an circle from 5 by 5 cm and extruded it by 2mm. On that surface I made the zig zags by using lines, than you make a circle in the size/ thick you want your line and than use the sweep tool to make them round. I alternated the zig zags. The first is on the surface (join) and the second under the surface (cut) and so on.

Tips and tricks

• Don't make sharp angles, but always give it an degree. This way it's easier to get the mold out.

• I made al the zig zags one by one. I was told that if you make it a body, you can copy it.

Mold 3 - Star

For the third mold we wanted to make an star. And on that star we wanted to make some icons/ structures to make it look beautiful and intersting. Sadly the program quit a couple of times but eventually we made it work.

First we watched a video on how to make an star. You'll have to make two polygons, one big (6cm) and one small (3cm) in the middle of that. Than you connect the two polygons with lines and delete the outer lines. Select everything and join them. Select everything and extrude it (3cm) with an degree (40 degrees). Than you have an nice star. We decorated it with little roundings on the side. You make these by putting a circle on the surface and extrude it by 1mm with an degree. When you're finished with your design you can mirror it.

Then we wanted a box around the star with two holes for the air and fluid and a couple of markers so you can click it together. We asked Sander and watched a video to figure this out. To put the box around the star you first have to make an square in te middle of the star and extrude it both ways, make it a body. Than add a mid plane in the centre of the box to cut the box in half. Make the top invisible and make 4 spheres, one at each corner (join). Make the top visible again and cut the spheres out of the top. Than make the holes by selecting one half of the box and press H, than click on the screen where you want the hole and adjust the settings to your liking.

Tips and tricks

• Watch video's while making this. It will save you a lot of time.

• Make sure you leave one or two surfaces black so you can make the holes there.

Cura

To make sure that everybody could use the Ultimakers we printed our designs with other groups. The first time we shared with Andrei and Kaz and the second time with Kim and Anoush. This went really well and we worked together to get the settings right and to get the machine working.

Tips and tricks

• Save your Cura file as a gcode.

• Make sure that if you have to mirror or turn something, you do it correctly.

3D Printer

When using the 3D printer, you have to consider a few parameters.

• Filament / material (2,85mm)

  • There are different kinds of materials you can choose from. The most common are:

    • PLA

    • ABS

    • PVC

    • PET

• Printing speed

  • When adjusting the printing speed, you can manipulate the duration of your print. Keep in mind that a faster printing speed has a lower print quality.

• Infill

  • To save material and to make a design more rigid, the inside of your print consists of infill. This infill is a polygonal pattern with a lot of empty space in the middle. You can adjust the pattern and percentage of infill in cura.

• Nozzle temperature

  • Depending on the filament you are using, the nozzle can heat up to the temperature that fits the filament the best.

• Plate temperature

  • The plate where you're printing on is heated as well. When the plate is heated, your print will stick to it, granting stability during the printing process.

• Fan speed

  • Above the nozzle are two tiny fans whose speed can be adjusted. The fans cool your print, providing it more stability.

These settings can be selected when you start printing, but also when the printing already has begun. When you select 'tune' on the Ultimaker display, you can tweak the different parameters. For example, for our second set of molds, we cranked up the fan speed because the filament on the plate didn't solidify. What we didn't expect was that our filament was blown away by the fans. We had to stop the print and start over.

Mold 1 - Vacuum Former

Pictures

Show and Tell

Refection

This week I learned to work with fusion 360. We got an introduction class from Sander which was really nice. He explained all the important functions and after the class I could really make something of my own. I still find it an annoying program and than especially how you move on the screen but I can make it work. And I made something a bit to big and I didn't know how to make it smaller, so I started over again. In addition to that I know how Cura works. We got a class from Micky and Cura is pretty easy. It mostly is experimenting with the different settings and figuring out what is means. Of course we could make our desgin smaller in this program but that didn't matter. Also by making the star, I accidentally mirrored the design wrong. The star came in Cura with de star at the bottom, so I wanted to flip it. By doing that I did something wrong that made the attachment balls in the wrong place. We could print it again but because of corona there was no time so I ended up filing the balls off it and tape the construction together.

And of course we learned how the Ultimaker works. I find it very unpredictable things. Sometimes you install everything perfectly and it still goes wrong. This happend to us three times. The first time when we send something to the printer everything went right, except that we had the speed a bit to fast so the board started to shake. This made the design shift its position a bit, but that didn't matter to us. By the second design it went wrong the first time because it wasn't calibrated correctly. It took Kaj and Henk an hour to calibrate it (Kaj is an topper). The second time it was because there was a kink in the cord (Sander has a picture of that). The third time it went wrong because there was a thick part somewhere on the board and everytime the nozzle went over it, it came 1mm further on the board. This meant that the design was printed at an angle. So we stoped the machine and tried it again. This time it went right and we were very happy.

In Cura you can see how much material you need and how heavy that is. Next time I am going to weigh the pla (or other material) instead of rolling it out and checking how long it is. Henk told us that rolling it out was a good idea but by doing so we had to roll it in again which was harder and went a bit wrong. Because of this Kaj had to sometimes adjust the roll to make sure it didn't go wrong. And I also want to look sooner at video's on how to make something in Fusion. Otherwise it takes to long and the internet gives you all the answers.

https://www.notion.so/Samenvatting-gekregen-stof-7b6796de1b7d4fe1bcd54791d102cc73

This week we are going to work with outputs. We have to write 150 words about our own toolkit that we may have used in the last couple of weeks. Next to that you have to make an original image that fits your text. This week the editors for the zine are Kim and Summer.

Zine design

https://www.notion.so/Week-8-Dezine-toolkit-56c8d7410b4b4cf295017ebebbdd5cb3

My text

This week we talked about toolkits and how this was a part of the exercises the last couple of weeks. A lot of the things we did, I’ve never done before, so what I found really helpful is to start with an introduction. We had this in workshops, but you can also look online for videos. It’s always nice to know the basics and to know what’s possible. The next step is to lay out everything in a comprehensive and clear manner. This way you know which materials you have, and you can start experimenting. I always go in blindly and start doing stuff. Sometimes it works and sometimes you’re not getting anywhere. When things are not working out it’s nice to draw it out, to find instruction videos online or talk to other people about it. This always helps me. You’ll usually figure out really quickly what to do with this new inspiration and explanations.

Desiree van Dam

My visuals

My files

The end product

http://summerdanoe.nl/zine/

Assignment 0 - Zine with the entire group

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads.

Zine prompt:

"In a 'post-post-it' society, I wonder what the ultimate design toolkit to train the 21st century designer could be. Rather than the usual canvases or user journey maps, this toolkit would feature a set of basic design exercises that help everyone, not only design students, to make things that move, think, communicate, sense, see, compute or augment. These exercises would help students to control technology, to assertively own it as a material, a tool, and a key factor influencing society today." - Serena Cangiano

Reflect on your experience in the minor thus far. Can you link this to the readings of this week?

This week the zine will be an ultimate design toolkit. Think, create, design an exercise that would be part of this ultimate design toolkit, Cangiano mentions. Reflect on this exercise, why did you choose this, how is it linked to the minor and to this weeks reading.

Assignment 1 - individual

• Build an electronic circuit with at least one input (made by you!) and one actuator. Bonus assignment connecting your input with Processing.

• Program a microcontroller in the Arduino IDE to control your actuator with the input

• Design an output swatch of 10x10cm that is archive worthy. How can you make hardware look interesting/appealing/evocative? Use all the techniques you learned in previous weeks.

• Document the design, building, debugging and working results step by step

Connecting sensor with led

First I tried to connect my sensor with the new led. This worked pretty quickly because I'd done this before two week ago. However, I accidentally caused a short circuit at one of the LED lights, now only the blue and the green still work. This is a bit stupid of me but sadly I can do nothing about it at this time.

Connecting button with led

Then I connected the button with the led. I used one from the kit because Anoush has our homemade switches at her home. Again this went very smoothly.

Connecting the motor

Later I tried to connect the motor. I asked Micky for some help because I didn't know where to start. Micky gave me then some links with explanations. I followed the instructions and it accually went very smoothly then. It worked and I was very happy. Then I looked into how to connect the sensor and button with the motor.

Source: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-arduino-lesson-13-dc-motors/arduino-code, https://www.tutorialspoint.com/arduino/arduino_dc_motor.htm

Connecting button with motor

First I tried to connect the motor with the button because I thought this would be easier (and I was right). This also was very easy and I was happy and confident to try it with the sensor.

Connecting sensor with motor

The sensor was a completely different story. I attached all the wires but the motor kept going at full speed. At first I thought that was because the motor is attached to it's own energy source, so I removed the vin. But that didn't work so I looked at the picture of the button and saw that I put the D1 in the circuit of the sensor. So I tried to do that aswel but it still didn't work. It was very frustrating and I tried a lot of different ways but I couldn't figure out how to get it to work. So then I asked Micky if she could help me.

I talked with Micky for about two hours, to debug the circuit. At first we looked at how everything was plugged in. We deattached the power and put the analog wire next to the wire of the sensor. This didn't work. So we went to check if the sensor worked. We deattached the motor and put in Loes her code. This worked so we attached the motor again, but this time a bit differently. Then the motor stared to make a weird noise. The noise would go louder the more I pressed the sensor. Later we found out that the motor works but doesn't spin, it's moves a bit to the side when I press my sensor and than goes back when I let go. Which meant it worked but the motor can't handle different variations in readings. So it works and Micky is going to look into getting the motor to work.

/*
   Loes Bogers - March 2019
   Liza Stark - May 2018
   This sketch reads an analog sensor. It incorporates smoothing
   and calibration examples by Mellis and Igoe.
   The sensor is attached to A0 through a 10k voltage divider.
*/

// Define the number of samples to keep track of.  The higher the number,
// the more the readings will be smoothed, but the slower the output will
// respond to the input.  Using a constant rather than a normal variable lets
// use this value to determine the size of the readings array.

const int numReadings = 10;     // average number of readings
int readings[numReadings];      // the readings from the sensor
int readIndex = 0;              // the index of the current reading on the sensor
int total = 0;                  // the running total for the sensor
int average = 0;                // the average for the sensor
int sensorPin = A1;                // sensor pin
int ledPin = 3;                // LED connected to digital pin 3 (PWM pin ~ )

// Calibration variables
int sensorValue = 0;
int sensorMin = 1023;           //this is supposed to be higher
int sensorMax = 0;              //this is supposed to be lower

void setup() {

  // initialize serial communication with computer:
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // turn on LED to signal the start of the calibration period:
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
//  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);

  pinMode(sensorPin, INPUT);   // sets the pin as output

  // initialize all the readings on the sensor to 0:
  for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
    readings[thisReading] = 0;
  }

  Serial.println("Calibration beginning");
  Serial.println("Find the extremes of your sensor for 5 secs");

  // calibrate during the first five seconds
  while (millis() < 5000) {        //make shorter if it crashes
    sensorValue = analogRead(sensorPin);

    // record the maximum sensor value
    if (sensorValue > sensorMax) {
      sensorMax = sensorValue;
    }

    // record the minimum sensor value
    if (sensorValue < sensorMin) {
      sensorMin = sensorValue;
    }

    // print values for debugging
    Serial.print("Max = ");
    Serial.print(sensorMax);
    Serial.print("\t");
    Serial.print("Min = ");
    Serial.println(sensorMin);

  }

  // signal the end of the calibration period
//  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
  Serial.println("Calibration end");

}

void loop() {
  // READ VALUES COMING IN FROM THE SENSOR - Take average of 10 readings
  // subtract the last reading:
  total = total - readings[readIndex];

  // read from the sensor:
  readings[readIndex] = analogRead(sensorPin);

  // add the reading to the total:
  total = total + readings[readIndex];

  // advance to the next position in the array:
  readIndex = readIndex + 1;

  // if we're at the end of the array...
  if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
    // ...wrap around to the beginning:
    readIndex = 0;
  }

  // calculate the average:
  average = total / numReadings;

  // print the original average for debugging
  Serial.print("Average = ");
  Serial.print(average);
  Serial.print("\t");

  // map the average value to the min and max we recorded above
  average = map(average, sensorMin, sensorMax, 0, 255);

  // constrain the values within a certain range
  average = constrain(average, 0, 255);

  //set brightness of LED to average value (after mapping and constraining, so between 0-255)
  analogWrite(ledPin, average);  

  // print the new average for debugging
  Serial.print("New Average = ");
  Serial.println(average);

  delay(1);        // delay in between reads for stability

}

Later that evening Micky texted me with the solution. The motor has not enough power to start on its own. So you have to spin it a bit to give it a kick start and than it will spin on its own. I tried this the next morning and it worked. I adjusted the values a bit because when it's standing still, I have to kickstart it again. So I have set the values not to fall below 100, because below 100 the motor will stop. Doing this keeps the engine running all the time and I don't have to kickstart it again.

Values from 0 to 255 when the motor will stop and you have to kickstart it again:

// record the maximum sensor value
    if (sensorValue > sensorMax) {
      sensorMax = 550;
    }

    // record the minimum sensor value
    if (sensorValue < sensorMin) {
      sensorMin = 350;
    }

Values from 100 to 255 so the motor can continue spinning:

  // record the maximum sensor value
    if (sensorValue > sensorMax) {
      sensorMax = 550;
    }

    // record the minimum sensor value
    if (sensorValue < sensorMin) {
      sensorMin = 270;
    }

Mixing Led colors with sensor

Later I tried mixing the colors with code. Sadly my red is burned out so I did my best with the other two. I looked at DLO and made the circuit and copied the code from Micky from google drive. At first I thought it didn't work because I could only get one color. Later I figured that you had to put in some values in the code. I entered the values (highest = 1024, lowest = 370) and it worked. I then commented the code for red out and when the values are low you get blue, by middle you get green and really high you get aqua. It is a pity that I cannot make all colors.

/*
   Micky van Zeijl - March 2020
   Loes Bogers - March 2019
   Liza Stark - May 2018
  
   This sketch reads an analog sensor. It incorporates smoothing
   and calibration examples by Mellis and Igoe.
   The sensor is attached to A0 through a 10k voltage divider.

*/

// Define the number of samples to keep track of.  The higher the number,
// the more the readings will be smoothed, but the slower the output will
// respond to the input.  Using a constant rather than a normal variable lets
// use this value to determine the size of the readings array.

const int numReadings = 10;     // average number of readings
int readings[numReadings];      // the readings from the sensor
int readIndex = 0;              // the index of the current reading on the sensor
int total = 0;                  // the running total for the sensor
int average = 0;                // the average for the sensor
int sensorPin = A1;             // sensor pin I used A1 forArduino MKR
//int ledPin = 3;               // LED connected to digital pin 3 (PWM pin ~ )
//int redPin = 10; // for Arduino MKR 1010 use pin 3 (PWM pin ~ )
int bluePin = 4; // for Arduino MKR 1010 use pin 4(PWM pin ~ )
int greenPin = 5; // for ARduino MKR 1010 use pin 5 (PWM pin ~ )




// Calibration variables
int sensorValue = 0;
int sensorMin = 1023;           //this is supposed to be higher
int sensorMax = 0;              //this is supposed to be lower

void setup() {

 // pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT);
  // initialize serial communication with computer:
  Serial.begin(115200);

  // turn on LED to signal the start of the calibration period:
  // pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
  //  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);

  pinMode(sensorPin, INPUT);   // sets the pin as output

  // initialize all the readings on the sensor to 0:
  for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
    readings[thisReading] = 0;
  }

  Serial.println("Calibration beginning");
  Serial.println("Find the extremes of your sensor for 5 secs");

  // calibrate during the first five seconds
  while (millis() < 5000) {        //make shorter if it crashes
    sensorValue = analogRead(sensorPin);

    // record the maximum sensor value
    if (sensorValue > sensorMax) {
      sensorMax = 1025;
    }

    // record the minimum sensor value
    if (sensorValue < sensorMin) {
      sensorMin = 370;
    }

    // print values for debugging
    Serial.print("Max = ");
    Serial.print(sensorMax);
    Serial.print("\t");
    Serial.print("Min = ");
    Serial.println(sensorMin);

  }

  // signal the end of the calibration period
  //  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
  Serial.println("Calibration end");

}

void loop() {
  // READ VALUES COMING IN FROM THE SENSOR - Take average of 10 readings
  // subtract the last reading:
  total = total - readings[readIndex];

  // read from the sensor:
  readings[readIndex] = analogRead(sensorPin);

  // add the reading to the total:
  total = total + readings[readIndex];

  // advance to the next position in the array:
  readIndex = readIndex + 1;

  // if we're at the end of the array...
  if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
    // ...wrap around to the beginning:
    readIndex = 0;
  }

  // calculate the average:
  average = total / numReadings;

  // print the original average for debugging
  Serial.print("Average = ");
  Serial.print(average);
  Serial.print("\t");

  // map the average value to the min and max we recorded above
  average = map(average, sensorMin, sensorMax, 0, 255);

  // constrain the values within a certain range
  average = constrain(average, 0, 255);

  //set brightness of LED to average value (after mapping and constraining, so between 0-255)

  /* Use the readings of the sensor to control the LED. Each RGB color pin is linked to the readings of average. You can play around with the color combination of each pin. At the moment it’s a bit random.  
*/

  if (average <= 85) {

 //   analogWrite(redPin, average*3);
    analogWrite(greenPin, 0);
    analogWrite(bluePin, (85-average)*3);
  }

  else if (average > 85 && average <= 240) {

  //  analogWrite(redPin, (170-average)*3);
    analogWrite(greenPin, (average-85)*3);
    analogWrite(bluePin, 0);

  }

  else {
 //   analogWrite(redPin,0);
    analogWrite(greenPin, (240-average)*3);
    analogWrite(bluePin, (average-240)*3);
    
  }



  // print the new average for debugging
  Serial.print("New Average = ");
  Serial.println(average);

  delay(1);        // delay in between reads for stability

}

Changing Led colors with button

Later I tried it with the button. I made the circuit that Micky posted on DLO and used her code. This was easier then with the sensor and I got it working pretty quickly. I commented the code for red out again and made the last one aqua (so blue and green on HIGH).

//       RGB LED Color Control
//      circuits4you.com
//========================================================================
//Changes made by Micky van Zeijl 
 
// constants won't change. They're used here to
// set pin numbers:
 
// Make sure to change the pinnumbers when you’re using the Arduino MKR.
// For the nodeMcu you can use all pins except 0. Don’t forget to add a D
// so it’s redPin = D3; for example

const int buttonPin = 6; // for Arduino MKR 1010 I used 6
//const int redPin = 10; // for Arduino MKR 1010 - use pin 3
const int bluePin = 4; // for Arduino MKR 1010 - use pin 4
const int greenPin = 5; // for ARduino MKR 1010 - use pin 5

int counter = 0;
bool previousbuttonstateLow = false;

void setup() {
  pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT);
  //pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop() {

  int buttonState;
  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);

  Serial.println(counter);

  if (buttonState == LOW && !previousbuttonstateLow) {
    counter++;

    if (counter > 3) counter = 0;
    previousbuttonstateLow = true;

  }

  if (buttonState == HIGH) {
    previousbuttonstateLow = false;
  }

  Serial.print("buttonstate is:" );
  Serial.println( buttonState);
  Serial.print("previous buttonstate is:");
  Serial.println(previousbuttonstateLow);

  if (counter == 0) {
    //digitalWrite(redPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(greenPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW);
  }

  else if (counter == 1) {
    //digitalWrite(redPin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(greenPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(bluePin, HIGH);
  }

  else if (counter == 2) {
    //digitalWrite(redPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(greenPin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW);
  }

  else if (counter == 3) {
    //digitalWrite(redPin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(greenPin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(bluePin, HIGH);
  }


}

Swatch

For the swatch I wanted to do something with the motor. What can I attach to the motor to make it interesting? I was thinking of our first lesson when we had to bring stuff that suited us. Sam then took a spiral thing and I tried to copy that. For this I cut a skewer and cut rounds of some gray cardboard. I also found some ribbons in the house and cut them into small pieces. I connected te pieces and attached it to the motor. Later I thought about the unity (black and copper), but I already made mine with colors. Later I will make a new one with only black and white.

I made an hole in the middle of the black cardbox where the tip of the motor could go through. On the side I put some coppertape. On the back I connected the motor to the coppertape with aluminium foil and some coppertape. The motor was not very tightly bound this time. That's why I put some black tape over it for support. At last I connected the spiral thing to the motor with tape.

Show and tell

Reflection

This week I learned how to attach an motor to the arduino and how to work with an RGB led. This was very interesting because I had never done this before and I really had to do it on my own with a bit of help from a website. After a while I figured out how it worked and I was really happy about it. I'm glad I already had an intro about this subject in week 6 so I knew the basics again. I also learned more about the code and how to make different colours with the LED. I liked to figure out how it works even tho it took me awile. Making the swatch was also a fun process even tho it's not working the way I inteded it to. But next time I have to think before I start making it because it has to be black instead of different colours.

This week I didn't had that much time to look at processing but maybe I can look at that later.

Trail of Evidence

Other Documentation

For this week started making my website, looked at 3 different recipes and tried to make two colors.

First I made the red pigment

I boiled some water and added hibiscus tea leaves. I let the leaves boil for a moment and let the pigment color the water. After that I removed the leaves and poured the water in jars.

Then I made bio silicone:

48gr Gelatine

48gr Glycerine

240ml red hibiscus tea water

How to

1. Warm up the water in a pot on your stove (the water is already dyed because we are planning to use only one color).

2. Add your plasticizer, the Glycerine will bond with the gelatin, the polymer in this case the glycine is a very high amount, this gives the needed elasticity to your bio silicone.

3. Add the Gelatine, your polymer.

4. Mix gently the ingredients until they form a smooth mix.

5. Simmer for 15-20 minutes (86C max).

6. Prepare you’re the surfaces and moulds to be filled.

7. Once your mixture has thickened, almost like a syrup, pour on your chosen surface. Once you start pouring try to cast slowly without inglobating air, and by carefully pouring on the liquid itself.

8. Let the mold dry in a ventilated and dry room, turning your piece until it’s dry will help you preventing mould formation, but might affect deformation due to water loss.

Reflection

By making the bio silicone I did some things wrong. I didn't wait until the mixture thickened and directly poured the mixture in the moulds. And when the bioplastic had hardend, I found that the color was orange instead of red.

After that I made bio foam:

48gr Gelatine

8gr Glycerine

240ml red Hibiscus tea water

Tablespoon soap

How to

1. Warm up the water in a pot on your stove (the water is already dyed because we are planning to use only one color).

2. Add your plasticizer, the Glycerine will bond with the Gelatine, the polymer.

3. Add the Gelatine, your polymer.

4. Mix gently the ingredients until they form a smooth mix.

5. Add a tablespoon of dishwashing soap to the mixture.

6. Boil for 15-20 minutes (86C max) whisking constantly.

7. Prepare you’re the surfaces and moulds to be filled.

8. Once your mixture has thickened, almost like a syrup, pour on your chosen surface. Once you start pouring, try to cast slowly, without inglobating air, and by carefully pouring on the liquid itself.

9. Let the mould dry in a ventilated and dry room, turning your piece until it’s dry will help you preventing mould formation, but might affect deformation due to water loss.

Reflection

By making the bio foam I did some things wrong. I didn't wait until the mixture thickened. And when I poured the mixture in the moulds, I first scouped out the foam layer and than poured the rest of the mixture in the moulds. I should have wisked the entire mixture to foam and poured that. What I don't understand is why the mixture is red but the foam isn't.

At last I made the bio resin:

I started to play with the bio silicone recipe and I wanted to adjust the glycerine and found out that that is the bio resin recipe.

48gr Gelatine

8gr Glycerine

240ml red hibiscus tea water

How to

1. Warm up the water in a pot on your stove (the water is already dyed because we are planning to use only one color).

2. Add your plasticizer, the Glycerine will bond with the gelatin, the polymer.

3. Add the Gelatine, your polymer.

4. Mix gently the ingredients until they form a smooth mix.

5. Simmer for 15-20 minutes (86C max).

6. Prepare you’re the surfaces and moulds to be filled.

7. Once your mixture has thickened, almost like a syrup, pour on your chosen surface. Once you start pouring try to cast slowly without inglobating air, and by carefully pouring on the liquid itself.

8. Let the mold dry in a ventilated and dry room, turning your piece until it’s dry will help you preventing mould formation, but might affect deformation due to water loss.

Reflection

By making the bio resin I waited until the mixture had thickened (about 10 minutes) and then poured the mixture in the moulds. And when the bioplastic had hardend, I found that the color was orange instead of red.

Conclusion

I tested out three recipes with the same color and decided to move on with the bio resin. I choose this because it contains less gelatin, so it is firmer, and because it does not shrink very much. I did not choose the Bio Foam, because the foam was only on the top and it did not get any color.

Blanco

I wanted to know what the natural color was of the recipe bio resin so I made an batch with no pigment. It turned out to be a little yellow.

Yellow pigment

I boiled some water and added one teaspoon of turmeric (kurkuma). I let the pigment boil for a moment and let it color the water. After that, I poured the colored water in jars and used it in the recipe. It turned out to be a bit more orange.

Photo's

Flowers

Because I want to make colors out of natural elements I went looking for flowers in my neighbourhood. Later I deattached te leaves from the flowers and put them in a bag to dry. I also layed them out in the sun. If the leaves are dry I going to put them in water to let them color the water. I also searched online for natural pigments and wrote them down.

For green, I boiled some water and added grass. I let the grass boil for a moment and let the pigment color the water. After that I removed the grass and poured the water in jars.

This week we are making bioplastics and I'm an team with Anoush again because of the corona virus. We have to write 150 words about social issues with bioplastic. Next to that you have to make an original image that fits your text. This week the editors for the zine are Dusanka and Britt.

Zine design

https://www.notion.so/Week-7-Bioplastics-8c2f65e5e4f84c1bb5116563ef4d3f94

My text

Raw Materials

Bioplastics is plastic made out of renewable raw materials. There are a few Dutch designers who are looking into different kind of materials to make products out of bioplastics. Sometimes you can't see what kind of material it is made with. This information can influence the consumer, for better or for worse. Some think it’s really cool and unique while others can find it disgusting and have some social issues with it. So, do you tell them or not? That’s the question. My answer would be to go with the middle way. Don’t tell them at first and let them see the beauty. Then tell them how it is made, with what kind of materials and why. This way you can maybe change the minds of people who are not so open minded. Some will still not accept it, but others just might. That is what I would do to get bioplastics a bit more known and accepted in the world.

Desiree van Dam

My visuals

My files

The end product

Assignment 0 - with the entire group

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads.

Assignment 1 - individual

Dive into the world of biobased plastic and speculate about future applications using the Material Driven Design Method. The assignment of this week is to make your own bioplastics and use the Material Driven Design (MDD)-method to come up with future applications.

The basic four steps of the method are:

• 1. Understanding the material

• 2. Creating material's vision

• 3. Manifesting material's experience patterns

• 4. Designing material/product concepts

• Document all the steps, tricks, tips, settings and outcomes as described on gitbook.

Thursday Bioplastics

I wanted to begin with my mold. The mold with a zigzag is an mold in a mold so I wanted the first mold to be stif. So I made an agar agar mix without glycerine. I greased the mold with Vaseline and put the liquid in the mold and it looked really good.

The recipe that I used:

• 80 ml water

• 3,2 g agar

I cooked this and then I poured this in the mold. I poured the rest and the foam on the baking paper. I let it dry in front of an open window in the mold for 24 hours and then I let it dry outside the mold for another 24 hours.

Later

The next day I got it out of the mold and it looked really nice. I let it dry a bit longer but than I saw that the corners were curling up. Loes said later that morning that if that happend, you had to put a book on it. So I did that and after 7 hours it was flat again and I took the book off. But the next morning it was competely ruined again and I put it under the book again. Sadly it did not work and now it's really small and dried out. I'm gonna try again with a different recipe.

Thursday again

After that I wanted to do the star and I wanted it to be wobbly. So I wanted to do the Gelatine Foam. I covered the star with vaseline and I sealed the shape with tape. But I found out that the holes in the mold were to small and the liquid dried very fast. Because I first wanted to put it in a small spray bottle first and the put it in the mold. So it all failed horribly and nothing came in the star and the bottle was all dried out and it was a disaster.

The recipe that I used:

• 60 ml glycerine

• 60 ml water

• 45 ml gelatine

• 6 ml orange hand soap

So I cooked this and then I tried to pour this in the mold. I still let it dry in front of an open window in the mold for 24 hours to see what the result would be, and then I let it dry outside the mold for another 24 hours.

Later

I let everything dry on baking paper and asked the next day if I could reheat it and put it in molds again. Sam and Loes said this was possible and Loes added that it would be nice if I put some sand through it than so I did that. I grabbed the star and looked how much liquid went in. It was literally nothing, what I thought. It was only in the holes and I let it stay there so the liquid wouldn't run out when I put new liquid in the star again. I reheated the blobs from the day before, added some sand and put it in the mold. I still let it dry in front of an open window in the mold for 24 hours to see what the result would be, and then I let it dry outside the mold for another 24 hours.

This time everything worked great and they came out beautifully.

Friday bioplastics

I saw that my classmates were more experimenting with different kind of ingredients. So I started doing that to the next morning. I wanted to experiment with the same recipe but different elements to see how the structure would change it.

The recipe that I used:

• 1,4 g glycerine

• 40 ml water

• 1,6 g agar

Then I had 7 petri dishes, the first one was neutral and the others had all one teaspoon of another material.

1. Neutral

2. Sawdust

3. Eggshells

4. Honey

5. Cannelle

6. Aromat

7. Grass on a leaf

8. All the foam of the above mentioned elements together

I cooked the recipe with the elements and put them in a petri dish with the corresponding number on it. I let it dry in front of an open window for 24 hours and then I let it dry outside the petri dish for another 24 hours.

Later I wanted to do something with the fabrics I got and maizana. The fabrics differt from texture. The one most to the left is the most flexible and the one on the right is the most stif. I wanted to give them the most opposite in bioplastic. So the most flexible fabricgets the most brittle bioplastic, and the most stiff fabric gets the most flexible bioplastic. To see what it would do. I poured the rest of the liquid into a Petri dish with PLA strings.

The recipe that I used:

I cooked each recipe one by one with the elements and put fabric in the pan until it was completely covered. Then I put in on baking paper to let it dry. I let it dry in front of an open window for 24 hours. After that the two whose bioplastic was most brittle were dry. The other two were still wet. I kept letting them dry and the one who had the most flexible bioplastig still wasn't dry after almost 48 hours. Also the one in the petri dish with the same substance wouldn't dry.

The next day I got them out and they were perfect. Two started to curl a little bit so I put them under something heavy.

Sunday - Describing properties and experience

The last one of the fabrics still wasn't dry but I wanted to start looking into the materials, their properties and experience. I went to my dads house to do this with a bit more people than only my mom. It tooks us half an hour to define everything but we did it. Before we started I went through the slides and wrote some keywords down that the others could use. What I especially noticed is that they were really curious about the bioplastics. Everybody wanted to touch it and asked what it was. They especially liked the white blob with pla pieces in it, because it was sticky and weird. Some pieces they liked and others a bit less.

Link to the video about me and my family identifying the properties:

https://youtu.be/MlblBh-FgkQ

Conclusions:

What I liked is that when I displayed everything on the table when I arrived, my little sisters came up to me with a thousand questions and wanted to touch it. This means they were very curious. They also all liked to guess what it was and what kind of smell it had. The ones that didn't dry looked like slime to them and the other was a squisy (a toy). My youngest sister thought that everything smelled like glue. They wanted to hold it but also made them want to wash their hands. Some they liked to touch and others not so much but that also depended on who hold it. What I can get from these conclusions is that everybody looks at the material different. Sometimes I found a material a bit rough and then they found it smooth, this went for more properties and how they handled the material.

Feedback from Sam:

Analysing results of the star, sawdust, honey, camille, aromat and

I coudn't choose so I analyzed more.

I begun with the star. It consist of four materials: glycerine, water, gelatine and orange hand soap. I mixed the construction with sand. The material is flexible and but smells really bad. It is very soft.

Then the sawdust. It consist of three materials: glycerine, water and agar. I mixed the construction with sawdust. The material is flexible and smells neutral. It has a rough texture.

Then the honey. It consist of three materials: glycerine, water and agar. I mixed the construction with honey. The material is flexible and still smells like honey. It has a smooth texture.

Then the camille. It consist of three materials: glycerine, water and agar. I mixed the construction with camille. The material is flexible and still smells like camille. It has a medium texture.

Then the aromat. It consist of three materials: glycerine, water and agar. I mixed the construction with aromat. The material is flexible and smells like bouillon. It has a pretty smooth texture.

At last the fabric. It consist of four materials: glycerine, water, corn stash and vinegar. The material is flexible but hard and smells neutral. It has a hard texture and a bit rough.

Extra test

After the show and tell Sam asked me to do a fire and water test for a couple more. I did this for the star, camille and honey.

New conclusions:

Concepts for future application

Star

Because the material is soft and squishy, you can maybe use it for a toy. It feels nice and is really flexible, so you can make some kind of shape out of this like an animal. I just don't know if it's good for the kid and it smells bad.

Sawdust

It is strong but shrinks a lot.

Honey

Because of the smell it could be some kind of soap. It feels nice and it's glossy. I don't know if it resolves in water and if it's good for your skin.

Camille

Due to the fragrance, it can be used as a kind of fragrance tablet. Burning it out spreads a pleasant fragrance throughout the room. I don't know if it burns well tho.

Aromat

See through and turns green.

Light blue fabric

It can make an flexible piece of fabric hard and stiff.

Show and tell

Reflection

This week I learned about making bioplastics and about the difference in the material. I liked standing in the kitchen and mixing all the ingredients, trying out different recipes and making little pieces of bioplastics. I wonder if any kind of the recipes can be really brittle because I did not succeed at that. Next time (if I have the chance) I want to use a different scale that can precisely measure. Now it was really hard to get the exact quantity of what you needed. This probably messed up the outcome, because they are small quantities instead of big. I also learned to really look at the material by looking at its properties and discribing the experience you have with it. I thought it was nice we had some kind of guidelines we could look at. This helped me and my family to distinguish the differences.

I still want to do the zigzag mold again. I think I want to use the same ingredients I used for the star. The material shrinked less and it was really firm. Because of that, I think that will work better.

Week 1 - Safety zine

Ik was een team samen met Laura. Wij kozen de lasersnijder en vacuumvormer voor de safety zine. Kim en Summer zorgten voor de style.

Style

https://www.notion.so/summerd/Safety-Zine-guide-27b9b6228ee64e0c89fa0403ab8d61dc

Hi all!

Vanavond moeten de documenten als PDF worden gestuurd naar kim.sinke@hva.nl en summer.danoe@hva.nl

De teams hebben ieder 2 spreads die gestuurd moeten worden, we willen deze spreads links en rechts als aparte A5 documenten gestuurd krijgen en een A5 voor roze en blauw.

Dus in totaal ontvangen we per team 8 A5 PDF documenten die samen 2 spreads vormen met een roze/blauwe kleur combinatie. (Per spread 4 A5 PDF documenten)

Vergeet je naam er niet bij te noteren.

Morgen verwachten we iedereen rond 10:00 uur in het lokaal, zodat we de feedback kunnen bespreken en verwerken. Hierna werken we samen aan de zine ✨

http://the-print-guide.blogspot.com/2009/05/halftone-screen-angles.html Vergeet ook niet na te denken over hoe je omgaat met het printen van grote vlakken :)

Onze bladen

Laser, vacuum safetyzine Folder 2.zip

Laser en vacuum.zip

Trail of Evidence

Other Documentation

I also tried to make pink again and this time I decided to leave the vinegar out of it. So I used 2 to 3 tablespoons of beetroot and 240ml water. This turned out a bit salmon, orange/pink.

At last I wanted to work with blueberries. So I used 38,2g blue berries and 300ml water for a very short time. This made the bioplastic yellow/ white.

Unfortunately, attempt 10 to make blue failed again. I added sugar to the red cabbage water and the water turned transparent/ pink. I used 84,4g red cabbage and 400ml water. I let that simmer for 20 minutes and than added 4 tablespoons of sugar. It became completely transparant and so I added a little bit of extra blue water in the end (about 60ml). This made it turn a little bit pink.

I cooked some avocado pits and looked at what that would do. First I put 6 avocado pits in water and let it simmer for about 45 minutes. This made a beautiful orange.

Later I cooked the same 8 avocado pits with 2 teaspoons crystalsoda and 600ml water. I let this simmer for about 20 minutes. The water turned black redisch.

After that I cooked some union. This gave a yellow/ orange color.

Trail of Evidence

Other documentation

In the last week I also made another pink/ purpleish one. I did this by letting the red cabbage stay in water for 3 days and then add vinager. This made the color deep pink.

Reframing sessie Laura

Photo of the bioplastics

Exiting question or statement

How to color your bioplastic by only using natural ingredients which are easily accessible?

Intro text

My end goal is to create the seven basic colors. These colors will give designers more freedom in their work. I experimented with this, so others have more variety for applications. For this I iterated with a gelatine recipe, for which I only used natural materials that are easily accessible, like products you can find in a supermarket. I looked at different opacity's in colors and used different kinds of coloring elements, to see what works best and to see what it does to the bioplastic. In addition, I also performed different kinds of tests to see what affects the bioplastic and what does not.

Expoplan

Trail of Evidence

Other Documentation

I also cooked the seeds of a pomegranate for 5 a 10 minutes in 400ml water. This will turn a nice red/ pink/ orange color.

Later I wanted to try with the spirulina again. I made 50ml spirulina water (out of 2 teaspoons spirulina powder) and mixed 250ml water with 20g sugar. I put them together and added 8g glyserine and 60g gelatine. This gave a beautiful light green/ yellowish color.

I also tried it with a bit lest spirulina. I made 40ml spirulina water (out of less than a teaspoon spirulina powder) and mixed 200ml water with 16g sugar. I put them together and added 8g glyserine and 48g gelatine. This gave a yellowish color.

I tried to make blue out of red cabbage with a differt recipe. This is with agar. It took a few tries before I got it. At first I cooked the red cabbage and added a little bit of baking soda to make the water blue. But when I added the agar the water turned a deep green again.

Later I tried to make it without the baking soda but I got the same effect, only lighter. This one is a bit green/ white.

I figured it slowly becomes green because of the ph value. So I made sure the water was deep purple the third time and added the agar. First it became blue but then it started to turn green. Before that could fully happen I poured the mixture into the moulds. Now you can see it has a blue color when you put it down and when you hold it up it's a bit greenish.

Agar agar recipe

240ml water

9,6g agar

8g glycerine

Presentation

Trail of Evidence

Other Documentation

This week I started to make more colors. I started with the green that i made from grass. This turned out really nice.

I was inpatient to wait for the flowers to dry so I went and cooked some purlpe syringa vulgaris andenken flowers and boiled them in water. I used 300ml water and 5,5gram flowers. Instead of purple, the water turned yellow, I let it stand for a day but it stayed yellow. Even tho it didn't turn out the way I expected it still looked pretty cool.

Britt told me that when you put red cabbage in water that you wil get a blue color. So i bought red cabbage in a jar together with beetroot in a jar. I used 300ml water and 355gram red cabbage. But because I bought it in a jar instead of fresh, the water turned purple. This also looked really cool, but later I therefore bought fresh red cabbage to try get the blue color.

I also put the beetroot in the water and that made the water turn a beautiful deep red. I used 300ml water and 355gram beetroot. It turned out really cool. Later I thought about mixing the red or purple with more water to make pink.

I went to a health store to look for some natural ingredients and found "Biologische spirulina poeder". This had a green/ blueish color and I also found this online and I wanted to try it so I bought it. I put 300ml water and 2,6gram of spirulina in it. The water turned green and this is what I used to make the green.

I later put fresh red cabbage in water. In the beginning it turned blue but I let it sit for a night (16 hours) and the water then also turned purple. I used 400ml water and 147,3gram red cabbage. This means you can make different colors with it. Later I let it sit for 10 minutes and the water had a beautiful blue color, but when I added the gelatine the water turned purple again (just a bit lighter). I also tried putting the blue in the mould and then adding the mixture to it, but it still turned purple.

Later I tried adding baking soda to the mixure but that made it green. I had 179,7gram red cabbage, 400ml water and 1 teaspoon baking soda.

I also tried to make pink. For this I had 94,1gram beetroot, 147,8gram water, 5 tablespoons of vinegar and half a lemon. But this turned out red. For the second try I used 2 to 3 tablespoons beetroot water, 230ml water and 2 tablespoons vinegar. This turned out to be orange.

Drying the flowers took a bit long so I tried different things to dry them. I spread the flowers on a baking tray and put them in the oven at 38 degrees for 3 hours. This took me too long and then I put them in the sun. I had also put some tulip petals in a container and left them in the sun. I noticed that laying in the sun works best and that the top leaves dry quickly, but the leaves underneath do not.

The recipe that I use

Bio Resin

48gr Gelatine

8gr Glycerine

240ml colored water

How to

1. Warm up the water in a pot on your stove, about 60C. (The water is already dyed because we are planning to use only one color).

2. Add your plasticizer, the glycerine will bond with the gelatin, the polymer. Then wisk around for about 30 seconds.

3. Add the gelatine, your polymer. Then wisk till everything is completely absorbed and they form a smooth mix, this can take up 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Simmer for 10 minutes (86C max).

5. Prepare you’re the surfaces and moulds to be filled.

6. Then start wisking again and make sure the top layer is completely absorbed again, this can take up a few minutes.

7. Take the pot off the fire and keep on wisking for another 10 minutes until your mixture has thickened, almost like a syrup.

8. Once your mixture has thickened, pour it in your chosen mould. Once you start pouring try to cast slowly without inglobating air, and by carefully pouring on the liquid itself.

9. Let the mold dry in a ventilated and dry room, turning your piece until it’s dry will help you preventing mould formation, but might affect deformation due to water loss.

Adjustment

There is mold growing on my bio resin bioplastic. Setting the bioplastic next to an open widnow does not help so now I've covered them in ratio foil. I hope this helps but I also started to change the recipe a bit again. I'm going to add a bit of foam to my recipes, but without mixing it to foam. This way I hope that my bioplastic will look the same but will not mold. In the next week I will see if this works.

https://desiree-van-dam-1.jimdosite.com

Presentation

Themes

There are three themes we can choose from for our project. These themes are:

Loes explained all three themes to us and urged us to research this ourselves using the links. Look at what you like and want to learn more about, then by the end of this week you must have a proposal figured out for the rest nine weeks. You can combine themes.

Because this can be a bit difficult, Loes gave a few questions to make it easier:

Brainstorm

The next day with Micky we had a brainstorm session so we could get more inspiration for our proposal. First we made an drawing of our room to set our minds open. Then we made a mindmap and discussed this with someone else and later combine ideas in Miro. We made an mindmap for each theme. The last assignment was to generate ideas, combining two themes. This I found very hard because I hadn't really studied the themes yet. So it was very difficult to come up with something. And at last we quickly wrote down what we thought was most memorable with a drawing.

Inspiration from others

Onderzoek

Theme 1

#makersagainstcorona. Protective material for your face.

Project open air. Beademingsapparaat, Beademingsmasker, Thuismonitor, Wapenstokhouder, Filtertestopstelling, Spatkappen, Mondneusmasker. Ik vind de thuismonitor en iets voor politiemensen wel interessant.

Snorkel Mask 4 Life. Snorkel Mask.

Peakash Lab, Curiosity-Driven Science. Air Purification Equipment

Frolic studio. Decontamination Toolkit. I find it an very clear discription.

Institute of Making. DIY face shield.

I mainly see a lot of protective masks or oxygen cleaners. I don't find this very interesting. There are also some things about police tools and a home monitor that I find more interesting, but I don't know if I like this enough to delve into this.

Theme 2

I see a lot of different things. The things that interest me the most are experimenting with colors, art, finding out how a bioplastic keeps its shape, how to make something waterproof/ fireproof, how can shapes make it stronger, does the structure affect the firmness, use the sticky bioplastic for stickers, figuring out new recipies, how to deal with making big surfaces.

Most inspiring pdf:

Theme 3

The things i like the most about this theme is making molds so the soft robotics (arduino) and making molds like in the video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i1CRUSiPFVk

Conclusion

I'm not completely sure on what I want to do. I like working with bioplastics and making molds but I don't know what I want for my focus.

I'm goining to take a look at Loes her questions to figure out what I want.

1. I found it enjoyable and intersting to work on:

   1. Bioplastics

   2. (Testing and cataloguing materials)

   3. 3D modeling and printing

   4. Mould making

2. From the 3 themes, I'm most interested in:

   1. Material Activism & Archiving

   2. Homo Faber's Tools

3. I explored the resources and will work on:

   I want to make molds and experiment/ iterate with a recipe to figure out how to make different opacity's in colours. Maybe later i can do something with art.

   Materiaal onderzoek, hoe je met composteerbare bioplastics kunt variëren met kleuren en opacity. Opacity in kleuren en 1 recept uitwerken in verschillende gradaties en welke mal daar het beste bij past -> dikte. Spelregels: natuurlijke kleurstoffen, niet giftig, lokaal geproduceerde ingrediënten.

   Methodes ontwikkelen om materialen te testen.

   Doel: basiskleuren creëren waarmee ontwerpers meer vrijheid krijgen.

4. I want to contribute by:

   Uitgebreide documentatie van experimenten en methodes voor kleurgebruik in bioplastics. Putting the recipes online with how to tutorials so that other people know how to make it. Also with all the material elements, so they know what they can use it for (water/ fire proof), Waterproef kleuren aantast. Picures.

   If an idea comes to mind about where to use it for, product or art related, I will try to make that.

   Doel: basiskleuren creëren waarmee ontwerpers meer vrijheid krijgen.

5. This is relevant because:

   Om niet alleen bioplastic te maken maar ook te kijken naar kleur zodat je er meer variatie heb voor toepassingen.

   Ik de eigenschappen en zijn zintuiglijke eigenschappen in tekst, tags en beeld laat zien met de tips and ticks, zodat mensen dit gemakkelijk kunnen terugvinden en namaken.

   It allows people to quickly see the material properties, ingredients and tags. To see the diversity in colour and how the environment can influence that.

   Waarom kies ik voor kleur?

   Ik vind het interesant om uit te zoeken en het kan best lastig zijn om duidelijke kleuren toe te voegen aan bioplastic en ik wil dat graag uitzoeken om dat duidelijker te maken voor mensen. I want to figure out how to get different colours using only natural elements.

   Waarom kies ik voor 1 recept?

   Om mijn focus klein te houden en je binnen een recept ook al veel kan variëren.

   Recepten 1 recept en dan verschillende kleuren.

   It's hard to figure something like that out and a lot of people struggle with it.

6. My first experiment will be to:

   Find different recipes and test them out. And expriment with one colour.

7. List of tools and materials I need to get:

   Ingredients, siliconen vormen, weegschaal, temperatuur meter, maal ding, 3D printer, PLA.

8. Lead times of local suppliers (contacted):

   Sligro (maar dat koop ik waarschijnlijk zelf), 3Dprinter.

9. Everything:

   Colors, art, finding out how a bioplastic keeps its shape, how to make something waterproof/ fireproof, how can shapes make it stronger, does the structure affect the firmness, use the sticky bioplastic for stickers, figuring out new recipies, how to deal with making big surfaces, making molds.

Gesprek met Loes

Bioplastics

• materiaalonderzoek doen

• hoe je met composteerbare bioplastics kunt variëren met kleuren en opacity

• uitgebreide documentatie van experimenten en methodes voor kleurgebruik in bioplastics

• doel: basiskleuren creëren waarmee ontwerpers meer vrijheid krijgen

• spelregels: natuurlijke kleurstoffen, niet giftig, lokaal geproduceerde ingrediënten

relevantie : kijk op mijn projectsite

• maken en te testen: kijk eens naar de touch feel box https://www.zins-ziegler-instruments.com/en/engineering/touchfeel-box-en/

• methodes ontwikkelen om materialen te testen (zie materiaaleigenschappen hieronder)

• krimpen en vervormen beheersen

• grenzen van volume

• mallen ontwerpen >> komt sowieso aan bod maar misschien secundair

• toevoegingen: hoe kun je verschillende kleuren krijgen?

• toevoegingen: hoe kun je opacity veranderen?

• kunst?

link naar mijn project: https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/projects/archiving_new_naturals/

MATERIAALEIGENSCHAPPEN

Strength: fragile/medium/strong/variable

Hardness: rigid/resilient/flexible/variable

Transparency: opaque/translucent/transparent/variable

Glossiness: glossy/matt/satin/variable

Weight: light/medium/heavy

Structure: closed/open/variable

Texture: rough/medium/smooth/variable

Temperature: cool/medium/warm/variable

Shape memory: low/medium/high/variable

Odor: none/moderate/strong/variable

Stickiness: low/medium/high/variable

Weather resistance: poor/medium/high/needs further research

Acoustic properties: absorbing/reflecting/needs further research

Anti-bacterial: yes/no/needs further research

Non-allergenic: yes/no/needs further research

Electrical properties: yes/no/needs further research

Heat resistance: low/medium/high/needs further research

Water resistance: low/water resistant/waterproof/needs further research

Chemical resistance: low/medium/high/needs further research

Scratch resistance: poor/moderate/high/needs further research

Surface friction: sliding/medium/braking/variable

Sensitive to color modifiers: alkaline/acidic/non

Presentation

Feedback

Inspiratie voor iedereen. De webshop van Verfmolen de Kat is gewoon nog open. Dus mocht je opzoek zijn naar plantaardige kleurstoffen kijk ook daar: https://www.verfmolendekat.com/nl/webshop/plantaardige-verfstoffen/

Tevens op hun website recepten om zelf verf te maken en in webshop materiaal voor verf En nog een tip kijk naar het werk van https://christienmeindertsma.com/Works zij presenteert materiaal en de hele keten heel mooi.

cristine

Tjeerd veenhoven

Uv light

yuri: hoe ga je documenteren? een kookboek?

Kijk als inspiratie voor documentatie hoe je die stappen weer kan geven naar Christien Meindersma https://christienmeindertsma.com/Works En https://www.tjeerdveenhoven.com/

marjolijn: kent iemand bij GWA die kleuren voor drukinkt heeft ontwikkeld

bedenk de spelregels: mag je iets kopen bij de kat? Of moet je het toch wel proberen zelf te maken?

Aga Lab - Naan Rijks

ik heb een artikel gelezen van tjeerd veenhoven het belangrijkste wat hij doet is eerst de tulpen drogen. ik had dat niet gedaan en toen gebeurde er niet zoveel tijdens het koken.

Marjolijn: kleurenfilters geven ook extra contract in zwartwit fotos

micky: ontwerp ook het opzetstukje oh dit is voor DANIEL (sorry)

Voor als je niet naar bouwmarkt wil. https://www.pyrasied.nl/ hier ook acrylaar online te koop

Trail of Evidence

This week we are making sensors and I'm an team with Anoush the next couple of weeks because of the corona virus. We have to write 150 words about digital or analog. Next to that you have to make an original image that fits your text. This week the editors for the zine are Andrei and Laura.

Zine Design

Hoi, de zine van week 6 is nog niet af en nog niet iedereen heeft het ingeleverd. Omdat we niet kunnen printen maken we daar een website van. De deadline is zondag om 18.00, dan hebben Laura en ik nog tot maandag middag om de website af te maken. Ipv alles zwart wit in een package in te leveren mag het nu een PNG zijn in de kleuren die we aangegeven hebben. De PNG kan nu wel vierkant zijn ipv de A5 formaat met de witruimte om te snijden. Lever het zowel bij mij als bij Laura in.

My text

Analog and Digital

This week we talked about analog and digital and the difference between them. The main difference between analog and digital lies in the way the signal is processed. Like for example, an analog sound is fluent and is always divisible and not indicated by numbers. A digital sound is angular, and you can’t measure it as fully as analog. For this week we are making an analog sensor and a digital switch. We read about buttons and we discussed why it’s important to read about. Because you then know how people think about it and you also learn about visual affordance. It’s important to read about it, but also important to write about it and make sure the information is available for everybody, like open source. Nowadays there is a lot of ‘black boxing’ going around. This means that people are ‘not allowed’ to know how something works. I think that that is a bad thing. I think it’s important to let people have knowledge of what they buy, and they can fix it if they break it. After all, they bought it. In my opinion you deserve to know what you've bought.

Desiree van Dam

My visuals

My files

The end product

https://andreimotian.com/quarantzine/

Assignment (in pairs):

• make one antiprimadonna on/off switch (archive-worthy!)

• make one antiprimadonna analog sensor (archive-worthy!)

• build the basic tools (a few paperclip connectors, a LED/resistor pad, a voltage divider)

• learn how to connect it to a microcontroller, program it, and get readings from your sensor in the serial monitor and plotter of the Arduino IDE (video!)

• make a video of the working circuits, and the values coming in, the LED changing brightness (video!)

• document step-by-step how you made everything and how you made it work (incl debugging)

• show at least 3 annotated iterations of each sensor

What did we do in class?

We were testing how it works to work with arduino. We learned about the microcontroller and how to schematic show your inputs and outputs. We also learned about the basics of code. I already understood most of it because I worked with it before. During class we worked on attaching an led, restistance, potentiometer. By the end it all worked. Below I put pictures, video's and code from this.

Building Tools

During class friday we made some paperclip connectors, a LED/resistor pad and a voltage divider. I think the paperclip connectors were the only ones that worked. In class we made the basics of de LED pad but never installed the LED. And we made and voltage divider but during testing we found out that they dont work, so we just put the resistor in the microcontroller. Later we fixed it with copper tape.

Digital

For the digital assignment we wanted to make an switch. We saw an example from Loes with an toggle and we thought that was really cool and wanted to make something of our own. Below you can read what we did with for the iterations and the end result.

Iterations/ Prototypes

Original Switch

For the original switch we covered the bottom corners with copper tape and at the top in the middle. Make sure it goes on on the back. Than make an hole in the middle under the copper tape and put an copper steel through it. Attach the copper steel at the back with the copper tape. Put an bol at the bottom of the copper steel in the middle of the two bottom corners. Attach the ground to the top, the 3v3 to the orange led and restistor to the left bol and attacht the other 3v3 to the blue led and restistor to the right bol.

Globules Switch

For the second iteration we made two walls and the ball could switch between them. It's the same principle as the one above, exept the two bottom corners are not covered in copper tape but there is an bol in it's place with a piece of copper tape at the front. Around the bol is a copper wire that is attached to a piece of copper tape at the side of the piece of paper. Attach the ground to the top, the 3v3 to the orange led and restistor to the left bol and attacht the other 3v3 to the blue led and restistor to the right bol.

Groove Switch

For another iteration Anoush made two other prototypes. One was a groove with at both sides an ball. The ball moves when you tilt it and will hit the other side of the groove. To make this you first make an groove in the middle of the paper. Than put copper tape on both sides of the groove. Line the entire ball with copper tape. Attach the two balls between the groove with an wire. Because Anoush doesn't have an microboard she can't test it, but will do that the next time we'll see eachother. Attach the ground to the wire of the balls, the 3v3 to the orange led and restistor to the left side and attacht the other 3v3 to the blue led and restistor to the right side.

Rope Switch

For the other one she covered the ball with copper tape and attached a rope to it. Than she attached the rope to the back and put on both sides of the paper some copper tape. You can than tilt the board to move the ball from one side to the other. Attach the ground to the top, the 3v3 to the orange led and restistor to the left bol and attacht the other 3v3 to the blue led and restistor to the right bol.

End result

1. The first one looks and works great but looks to much like the original.

2. The second one looks and works great but the pink will stand out.

3. The third one looks clean and is original.

4. The fourth one is original but looks a bit messy.

Analog

For the analog sensor I wanted to do something with stretch material. I saw the example from Loes and thought it would be really nice to try something like that out. Below you can read what we did with for the itterations and the end result.

Iterations/ Prototypes

Knitting

I wanted to try spool knitting but I didn't have the right material at home. For the spool you'll need to put pins at the top but because I don't have those I tried pegs. This did not work. So I tried making knots and another kind of knitting, but this did with the LED not work. The next day I tried to make the spool with skewers. Loes her example was with four knots so I tried with six. But when I started it didn't really work again so I quit. I went looking into velostat. This was fun to experiment with and we came up with some interesting designs. These designs I like better.

Accordion Sensor

For the experiment with velostat we came up with something that you can fold like an accordion. We made three vertical folings in the paper and attached copper tape from the side to the middle but not let the two endings touch. Then we put velostat on one side. As you close the sides the velostat will give resistance which will make the light less bright and the harder you push, the brighter it gets. Attach the vin to one side and let the current go to the resistor. From the resistor you can attach it to the ground and A0.

Happer Sensor

For the second iteration Anoush came up with the idea to make an "happer". We folded an happer and put copper tape on four planes that would touch eachother. Then we put velostat on one of the planes, so that one light would have resistance and the other one doesn't. This looked really cool. Attach the vin to one side and let the current go to the resistor. From the resistor you can attach it to the ground and A0.

Debuggen

To get readings from this I had some troubles. I had an 3 hour conversation with Loes about how to debugg it. First I attached the LED and the LDR to make sure that everything works. By the LED everything was fine. I ran the Blink file and the LED started to blink.

By the LDR I put some wires in the wrong place. I send picutres of my microboard to Loes and she told me to adjust some wires and to get another resistor. I was using 220 but I needed to use 10K. When I put everything in the right place and ran the code, everything worked fine.

I wanted to map what I was reading and adjusted the code. By doing this the serialreader didn't read anything anymore. You can fix this by closing Arduino completely and restart it. Then it works fine.

Stairs

For the last one Anoush came up with stairs. I folded the paper in little squares, than I attached copper tape to every spike and put on one side some velostat. Now as you close it, the velostat will give resistance which will make the light less bright and the harder you push, the brighter it gets. Attach the vin to one side and let the current go to the resistor. From the resistor you can attach it to the ground and A0.

End result

1. The first one looks and works great and is flat.

2. The second one looks and works great but the shape wil stand out.

3. The third one looks and works great but the shape wil stand out.

Proces

Show and tell

Reflection

I worked with adruino before so I knew some basics. But last time I got an 5,6 so that's not fantastic. I still find it hard to figure out where I had to put all the wires when you only have an schematic diagram. Luckily I had Loes on whatsapp who was willing to help me figure it all out and explain it to me. Of course it was a bit weird and hard because of the corona virus but we made it work. I also had a problem with knitting that could be solved earlier at school but now I learned more about velostat, making an circuit and reading the values. I understand it better now and it was fun to make the sensors. I think the stairs work best because they have the most velostat so the values change the most when you use it.

For the next time it seems more convenient if I immediately make my own schematic representation of my Arduino and wires so that I can understand it better myself. I now mainly have many photos. Other than that I don't know what I would do differently. It was all hard to figure out but I think I did the best I could. I liked making the sensors and I think debugging with Loes was my best option. Most of the time I don't understand the internet about this stuff.

Trail of Evidence

Project photo's

The plan is to place, side by side, all the colors of rainbow spectrum. At the beginning or behind the bioplastics I want to put down which recipe I have used and what lies where. I also want to indicate per color what is in it.

Other Documentation

Later I tried to make a color from one fresh avocado pit. I put the avocado in the water with 2 teaspoons of crystal soda. I boiled this for about 10 minutes and got a nice red color.

I tried the blue berries again and cooked them a bit longer. The water turned red/ pink. When I added baking soda, the water turned green. I used 69,1g blue berries, 400ml water and 1 teaspoon baking soda. I let it simmer for about 10 minutes.

I cooked the same blueberries again with 400ml water with some sugar and salt. This gave a nice orange color.

Later I tried to make blue again. I boiled 93,2g red cabbage and added 500ml water and let it simmer for 10 minutes. I added a really small amount of baking soda, but the water still turned green.

I tried adding even less the second time (also after adding gelatine) but it still turned green, only less.

Later I started with cooking strawberries. I took 4 large strawberries and started to cooked them in 400ml water for 15 minutes. It turned a bit orange. Maybe if I put more strawberries in the water it would turn more pink.

I also cooked purple carrot. First i cut 5 purple carrots it in pieces and then cooked it for about 5 minutes in 400ml water. It turned blue. But after I put in the gelatine it turned purple/ pinkish. But later it turned more orange

When I cooked the purple carrot for 15 minutes, it still turned purple/ pink/ red but just a bit darker.

I also added 1 teaspoon baking soda to the purple carrot water (15 minutes) to get blue but then it turned green.

In addition to that I cooked 25 raspberries in 400ml water for 15 minutes and this gave a beautiful purple/ deep pink color. But later it turned more to red/ orange.

I also took 150ml of that raspberrie juice, added 90ml water and 1 teaspoon of cetric acid. Tis made a nice pink/ orange color.

I cooked 21 blackberries in 600ml water and let it simmer for about an hour. It turned to a beautiful red/ pink.

I also used 130ml of blackberry juice and 110ml water with a little bit of baking soda, and that gave a pink/ purple color.