5.1 How do you print objects with a 3D printer?

What's needed to make a 3d print? A 3d printer, filament and a gcode file of an object. To get a gcode file of an object you either need to make a 3D object in a CAD program or download such an object from elsewhere. After the object is done it needs to be exported into Cura. Cura sets the maner of printing and afterwards it can be printed wuth the 3D printer.

5.2 What is Fusion 360?

Fusion 360 is a CAD program. It works simular like any other CAD program. A CAD (computer aided design) program is computer software that can create, modify, analyse and optimize 3D designs. It helps to communicate design or make them production ready.

5.3 What is Cura?

Cura works with STL. files. The STL file can be exported into Cura and from there on you can choose how it should be printed. Cura has a lot of options, for instance the speed it's printed, the quality of the print, the infill percentage of a solid object.

How do you export an object to an STL file in fusion 360? Click on file> export> types> STL files (*stl.)

5.4 How does a 3D printer work?

Step by step guide to print Before you start: you need a 3D printer, material (filament) and a gcode file of an object. First remove the material from the 3D printer. On the ultimaker there is a button to the "change" the material. The printer then warms itself first to spit out the material that is left in the tube. The material can then be placed on the back of the printer. The filament (material) can be placed in the printer. There is an opening at the rear where this happens.

Materials The ultimaker 2 3D printer can work with a variety of materials such as:

• PLA

• ABS

• CPE

• CPE+

• Nylon

• PC

• TPU 95A

• PP

All these materials have different settings in heat, meaning you can't choose the wrong material and expect it to work perfectly, or at all.

More information on the usage of materials in the Ultimaker can be found here.

Solid prints: infill To make an object less solid you can choose to use an infill. An infill will make the inside of the object in a pattern with space in-between. This will save both time and material. How much % of infill is used is to be chosen in the settings.

5.5 Test print

To start of the 3D print week we made a test print for the Ultimaker. The test print is made from PLA filament. The test print shocases 18 different test.

Overal the test print looks quite good. The printer did not have any mishaps and we did not need to stop it anywhere midthrough. The results of the 18 test prints:

1. Warp: The warp made a bend and connected well on the top.

2. Overhang: The overhang was possible, however the layers in the overhang turned more rough at the most sloping ones.

3. Spike: The fine details of the spike were not completely visable. It did not turn out square at the root, it started of round.

4. Pyramide: The pyramide worked better than the spike, the shape turned out how it should be.

5. Rounded print: The rounded print had the resolution that was expected. The rounding in the middle turned out smoothly.

6. Nut: The nut had almost the exact measurements that was shown in the 3d model.

7. Star: The star does have sharp edges, however the edges are less in format for the star.

8. Text: The text turned out a little less wide than expected, but it's still nicely readable.

9. Hole size: The hole sizes are a smaller than they should be, with a difference of about 0,3mm.

10. Minimum distance: The distance of the cuts are a little smaller than they should be. The printer also rounded the edges at the end of the print, instead of making them square.

11. Sphere: The sphere turned out as well as the rounded print (5).

12. Minimum walls: It is very clear where the printer began printing the layers. The line starts rounded on the left of the print. It also did not print the walls that had a less width than the material.

13. Wave: The wave turned out better than the minimum distance (10). The ultimaker prints rounded shapes better than straight ones.

14. Bridge print: The bridge was printed without the use of support. The filament is printed in the air at this point between the bridges. There is not difference between the smallest and longest bridge point.

15. Surface: The surface is rather flat, however it is not as smooth.

16. 3D print font: The lines did not merge. The numbers are readable, however it did have some problems with the holes of the 8 and 6.

17. Hole: The hole printed without the need of support and did not fall flat. The round was 0.2mm thinner than it should have been.

18. Z-height: The difference between the steps were accurate. The ultimaker made a layer around the entire print, making it impossible to tell if the first step turned out the way it should.

Conclusion: The biggest difference is that the print has small differences in the width of the material that's spit out by the ultimaker. This might be different if there's a more fine setting used or a different material. Another important detail to take into account is that the printer will not print lines that are wider than the material width that comes out of the printer.

5.6 Mold 1

Design and print 3 different molds for the open material archive that can be used for casting material samples. Requirements: all 4 parts should fit on the printing bed of the Ultimaker 2 (20 x 20 cm). So each part is about 8cm x 8cm, height can vary. 2.5D Metamold object, for flexible material texture. You will print the object itself and experiment with textures for the casted material. We will use the vacuum former to create mold of the mold.

I worked together with Duncan on this assignment. Neither of us had ever used an Ultimaker 3D printer before. I have a lot of experience in CAD programs, Duncan did not. This is why we decided to both be working on the 3D printing together. We made agreements on what we wanted to make for the 3D printer, then seperately made them in Fusion360 and helped each other where necessary.

For mold 1 we were inspired by the Bauhaus chess set. We made the bishop of the set as our first mold. For this print we used black PLA. The settings for this material are programmed into the 3D printer. (Mold 1 is made in fusion360 by Duncan)

NOTE: This print still needed to be vacuum formed but is not possible anymore due to school being closed.

5.7 Mold 2

2.5D Metamold for casting hard material texture. This metamold will be used to create a mold by casting flexible material to create the mold. This flexible mold will be used to cast a hard material.

I made mold 2 in Fusion360 and me and Duncan both printed it.

This mold was based on an artpiece from Boris Tellegen.

I used to artpiece to draw the lines in Fusion360 and then made my own heights with it and gave it an outer edge.

This is supposed to eb a gif on how it is made in Fusion360, it only plays once on my computer, if it does so on yours too I'd recommend you download the gif.

Unfortunately this video is the only evidence i have of the mold before it was completely melted during the bioplastic week.

5.8 Mold 3

3D mold (2 parts) of a (poly)spericon or other geometric object. The design should include an airhole and a pouring hole for casting. The design should include fixtures for exact part placement, or the two parts of the mold can be nested.

The third mold is made by both me and Duncan and resembles some iconic chair design. We followed a tutorial found by Desiree and Thijs on how to make a cast found here.

NOTE: this print has not been printed due to two mishaps with printing and school currently being closed.

5.9 Zine

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads (minimum 150 words + original imagery).

Reflect on what your responsibilities are as a maker/designer for making objects and the impact they have on people, society and the environment. Create your own maker manifesto. Discuss how you used this in your making process this week, and how it’s (an aspect of) this week’s work.

Er zal wit/créme/off-white papier gebruikt worden met daarop rood en blauwe inkt. De kleuren zijn gebaseerd op 3D beeld/films, aangezien het thema van de week 3D-printer is. Verder is iedereen vrij in het gebruik van foto’s, tekeningen, lettertype e.d.

5.10 Quality foto's voor de liefhebbers/What's gone wrong

What could be wrong to have your print come out like This monstrosity: • Your file could be wrongly filled with too little support. • You could have the wrong material put into the machine giving the wrong temperature. • The machine could have had a mishap and printed one mm wrongly which in turn made everything after turn into spaghetti. • The bed could be shifted during the printing making the same result as above. • The printer might have been calibrated wrongly. • The printer might have tried to print into the air.

Make one or more DIY soft speakers using the laser or vinyl cutter. Some options:

• use conductive thread (design a dot pattern and embroider the coil onto membrane)

• use conductive iron-on textile (design and cut the coil itself, iron onto membrane)

• or use copper sticker foil and the vinyl cutter

• other

• Solder together a mono amp + jack connector

• Connect it to a power supply (2-5V) (bench supply or 5V/500mA power bank)

• Experiment until you get some sound out of it, make noise!

• Experiment with the form factor

• Sketch an idea for an application of your soft speaker

2.1 How does a circuit work?

A circuit is a circle in which electric current can flow through one or multiple objects. To get a proper circuit the objects (for example a resister or a LED) need to use as much voltage as is given by the power supply. If this does not happen you get a short or broken circuit. A circuit will always go for the most efficient route. The amperage is constant throughout the entire circuit.

https://www.sparkfun.com/engineering_essentials

Rules of the circuit

1. Electricity flows from + to -

2. Voltage is the difference in electric potential between two points (NL: spanning)

3. Current is rate at which electric charge flows (NL: stroomsterkte)

4. Resistance: measure of a material’s ability to block electric current (NL: weerstand)

5. V = I*R, R = V/I, and I = V/R (Ohm’s law)

6. All the voltage generated is and should be used up by components in the circuit… (Kirchoff’s Voltage Law)

7. ... energy build-up, or unlimited current flow produces heat to release the excess energy

8. Current is the same across the entire circuit (Kirchoff’s Current Law)

9. Electricity follows the path of least resistance

10. Conductive materials allow electricity to flow

11. Resistive materials allow electricity to flow, but with a smaller current

12. Insulators block electricity flow completely

13. An electronic component is any basic discrete device or physical entity in an electronic system used to affect electrons or their associated fields (e.g. a resistor)

14. Materials - and therefor components - may have different affordances and limits.

15. And so on... you can spend a lifetime on electronics and still learn new things

2.2 Making circuits

Before you start - supplies: Copper tape, 2 LEDs, a resistor, a 3V power supply and a piece of velostat.

Simple circuit: Making a circuit using copper tape, a resistor, a LED and a 3V battery.

• The copper tape connects all the components. • The battery, resistor and the LED need to touch the copper tape at the non sticky part to connect in the circuit. • The + side of the battery needs to touch the left side of the circuit (he beginning), the - side needs to touch the right side (the end).

Pressure sensor: Making a circuit using copper tape, a resistor, a LED, velostat and a 3V battery.

• The pressure sensor has the same set up as the simple circuit with an added sensor. • The velostat works as a pressure sensor: The LED gets more voltage and shines brighter if there's more pressure on the velostat.

Making a circuit using copper tape, a resistor, 2 LEDs and a 3V battery.

• The LEDs are not placed after each other in the circuit but parallel. In theory the voltage will onlt run through the red LED considering that is the quickest path with the least amount of resistence.

What to do when your circuit is not working?

1. Measure the voltage of your power supply.

2. Confirm continuity of the connections (0 ohm or beep).

3. Measure or read the resistance of resistor.

4. Check for shorts.

5. Measure voltage across LED & across the resistor.

More examples of Chibitronics' circuits can be found here.

2.3 How to make your own speaker (speaker)

DESIGN ONE

Before you start - supplies: crepe paper, normal paper, cloth, copper tape, the electronics made before, a cup, magnets, a power supply.

The resistance that's needed for a speaker to work is between 4 and 8 ohm.

For the first design i used copper tape and three different types of surface material (crepe paper, normal paper and cloth). Copper tape can be sticked onto a material easily and is the best way to test a few things out.

The + and - can be put on either side of the coil.

After making tests on different materials and using different lengths of copper tape i can assume two things:

The test on the left turned out to be the loudest due to longer copper tape and the crepe paper as surface. This means that the closer the copper tape is to 4-8 Ohm the better the louder the sound & a fragile and bendy material gives the most clear sound.

DESIGN TWO

Before you start - supplies: A piece of denim, metal yarn, the electronics made before, a cup, magnets, a power supply.

This is the design of the speaker is made. To make a good coil you need a round pattern with lots of windings close to each other. I made this pattern with many circles in a squire shape to see if you really need one big circle or if many smaller circles in a circle pattern is also enough to make a speaker work.

How to make lasercut dots from lines The lasercutter can make four different kinds of cuts: normal cutting (cuts through and through), kiss cutting (cuts partially through the material), engraving (cuts the surface of the object) and dotted/clashed line (cuts in dots or lines).

I used the lasercutter to cut out a pattern. The dots are 1mm wide and the interval is half a centimeter. The material used is denim. The pattern is approximately 10cm x 10cm.

The resistance that's needed for a speaker to work is between 4 and 8 ohm. My pattern is about 1.2m long making the egypto metal the best fit. The egypto metal metal yarn is 10 ohm per meter, meaning i would idealy have about 80cm worth of material.

I made two variants of the speaker. One with the resistance of 8 Ohm (left) and one where the pattern is complete with a resistence of 13 Ohm (right).

Caution: You need to be carefull that the metal yarn does not touch each other anywhere in the speaker, if it does so the voltage on the yarn will choose the fastest way to get to the end point and a portion of your design will have no power running through it.

To make your speaker work you need a cup and magnets. The cup works as the stereobox. The design is to be put on the cup and the magnets need to be close to the design to give sound. At last there needs to be between 2-5V put on the speaker.

The speaker with 8 Ohm made a very soft sound. The speaker with 13 Ohm made no sound hearable because of the increase in resistence.

What to do when your circuit is not working?

1. Turn around your magnets.

2. See if your power supply is fully functioning.

3. Measure the resistence in the coil to see if it's between 4-8 ohm.

4. Make sure the metal yarn is not intertwined anywhere.

2.4 Application

I integrated the speaker design into a car seat. This way you're able to listen to your own music in the car. Or you can listen along to the radio music on the backseat without having the volume be turned up All the way.

2.5 Zine 2

The zine is printed on blue paper with red ink.

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads (minimum 150 words + original imagery).

Reflect on your making process this week and discuss how (an aspect of) this week’s work relates to a workmanship of risk/certainty (Cole & Perner-Wilson), and/or one or more of the concepts from the Unmaking: 5 Anxieties card set.

"To be a good maker is to be a good listener, observer and sensor." Every day we are flooded with information from others. From lectures given by the HvA to the instructions for a microwaved meal. We can do two things with this information: we can copy the information and use it as intended or we continue to work with the information and try to develop new additions that suit our wishes or needs.

In the introduction week of Makerslab we have been given many new methods. These methods were explained on the basis of workshops. For all workshops we received background information about how the methods work and what they are used for. After that we were allowed to work independently with the methods.

During these workshops I learned that if you pay more attention to what others have done before you, you will come up with better ideas yourself. Because to be a good maker you have to be a good listener, observer and sensor."

The first quote comes from Hannah Perner-Wilson.

Usefull reads:

Before you start: the supplies you need for these tests are a pot, a spoon or fork, a stove, a scale, a measuring cup & the ingredients named in the recipes for the experiments.

Assignment Dive into the world of biobased plastic and speculate about future applications using the Material Driven Design Method. The assignment of this week is to make your own bioplastics and use the Material Driven Design (MDD)-method to come up with future applications.

What: Make your own bioplastics and use the MDD-method to come up with future applications.

1. Make your own bioplastics. Try various recipes, add other materials, play with textures and use your mold. Document your process and findings.

2. Material properties sheet: Describe the properties of your material

3. Experiential toolkit: Understand the experience of your material

4. Future applications: Develop a concept for future applications

7.1 What are bioplastics?

Bioplastics are plastic materials produced from renewable biomass sources, such as vegetable fats and oils, corn starch, straw, woodchips, sawdust, recycled food waste, etc. Bioplastic can be made from agricultural by-products and also from used plastic bottles and other containers using microorganisms. Common plastics, such as fossil-fuel plastics (also called petrobased polymers) are derived from petroleum or natural gas. Not all bioplastics are biodegradable nor biodegrade more readily than commodity fossil-fuel derived plastics. Bioplastics are usually derived from sugar derivatives, including starch, cellulose, and lactic acid. As of 2014, bioplastics represented approximately 0.2% of the global polymer market (300 million tons).

7.2 Cooking bioplastics: agar agar test 01- to make a color

The bioplastics are based on Margaret Dunne's 'Agar Agar plant based bioplastic' recipe from her Bioplastic cook book for flexible bioplastics:

Following the recipe, you need to mix glycerine, water and agar. I used 5.4 gram glycerine, 80 ml water and 3.2 gram agar to get twice the amount for an almost fully flexible material. The ingredients were boiled for around 5 minutes until the substance looked and felt more brittle and it was then mixed with different ingredients.

The agar agar bioplastic has turned into a flexible bioplastic. There is very little force needed to break this material. It can be broken by bending of using a sharp object.The surface of the material is very smooth. Without the added ingredients the bioplastic is fully transparent.

The bioplastic was divided into five petri dishes. Each bowl had a different ingredient that was added to the bioplastic. For each bioplastic there was 3 grams of added ingredient. In the photo above you can see that the bioplastics are mixed with different ingredients. All the bioplastics have turned color into the color of the added ingredient. The texture of the material is something to be improved.

The first of the batch was mixed with paprika powder. The bioplastic had turned into a brown/orange color. The texture of the bioplastic became slightly more rough because of the bigger pieces of powder.

The second bioplastic was mixed with cappuccino cacao powder. This is a more fine powder which made it mix better with the bioplastic.The color of the cacao looks a lot more pure than the paprika powder. The structure of the bioplastic has remained unchanged.

The third bioplastic was mixed with coriander leaf (the coriander leaf was first made into a finer powder). The coriander has turned the bioplastic into a green color. The texture remains unchanged.

The fourth bioplastic was mixed with pepper (the pepper was first made into a more powdery substane). The smell of the pepper is still strongly smellable after the mix with the bioplastic. The color of the bioplastic has not fully merged with the color of the pepper. The texture of the bioplastic has become a lot more rough. The pepper was not entirely as fine as a powder as the other powders were, which is likely the reason behind the differences in properties.

The fifth bioplastic was mixed with turmeric. Turmeric is known for it's vivid yellow color. The color of this bioplastic turned out as the most bright color. It's completely lost the transparent ability of the bioplastic. The texture of the material has remained completely smooth. The bioplastic smells strongly like the turmeric.

7.3 Cooking bioplastics: Gelatine test 02 - to make a pattern

The bioplastics are based on Margaret Dunne's 'Gelatine animal based bioplastic' recipe from her Bioplastic cook book for flexible bioplastics:

Following the recipe, you need to mix glycerine, water and gelatine. I used 3.6 gram glycerine, 60 ml water and 12 gram gelatine to get the amount for an almost fully flexible material. The ingredients were boiled for around 5 minutes until the substance looked and felt more brittle and it was then mixed with different objects to get a pattern.

Gelatine bioplastic mixed with dried flowers.

The denim sticks to the bioplastic making it hard to get the material to not break. The pattern of the denim is slightly visible.

The gelatine bioplastic with bubbles is the only gelatine bioplastic that has no other objects mixed to create a pattern. The bubbles are created with a (plastic) straw. The bubbles harden but are still fragile.

Gelatine bioplastic with a crumbled foil pattern. The foil was layed upon the bioplastic in the petri dish to dry.

7.4 Material properties sheet

7.5 Experiential toolkit

7.6 Future applications

------ With special thanks to the parakeets that picked the flowers out of the trees so that i did not have to climb a tree

Before you start: what you need is a laptop with Arduino running, a breadboard, an Arduino chip, LED light, a resistor, copper tape, paper, a hook, The instal settings for the Arduino used below is found here:

Assignment

• make one antiprimadonna on/off switch (archive-worthy!)

• make one antiprimadonna analog sensor (archive-worthy!)

• build the basic tools (a few paperclip connectors, a LED/resistor pad, a voltage divider)

• learn how to connect it to a microcontroller, program it, and get readings from your sensor in the serial monitor and plotter of the Arduino IDE (video!)

• make a video of the working circuits, and the values coming in, the LED changing brightness (video!)

• document step-by-step how you made everything and how you made it work (incl debugging)

• show at least 3 annotated iterations of each sensor

6.1 How does a breadboard connect?

The middle parts connect with the 5 holes vertically (however not from the upper middle part and the below middle part). The + connects along the entire + row. The - connects along the entire - row.

6.2 (Assignments in class)

How to make a flasher:

6.3 How do you make an on-off switch?

An on-off switch only has two states, on and off. The circuit for an on-off switch looks like this:

• The input is VCC which gives 3V power.

• The switch is normally closed.

• The circuit powers a LED light.

• The output is in ground.

How to make a Fish hook switch

Supplies list: The arduino switch set up, paper, copper tape and a fishing hook.

tadaaaa tadat tatdtata

6. Quarantzine

1. PROJECT

1.1 Thema 2: Material activism & archiving.

“The current trend in new materials in design is booming. It is no longer enough to create functional, beautiful or high-tech stuff. We need to shake off our plastic addiction and look differently at the kind of production materials we use as designers. In most material archives, an open-source ethic is lacking, material innovations are often patented and only sold within business-2-business. Our natural recourses are part of the commons, we should have material knowledge to match it.”

1.2 Brainstorm

1.3 Project

2. PROBLEEMVERKENNING

2.1 How are products protected during transport?

2.2 Conclusion: what next?

I want to continue finding a more sustainable solution to packing peanuts. Packing peanuts are mainly made from plastics and are very rarely made from different materials. They are made from styrofoam and the peanuts are not recyclable. I want to see if I can make packing peanuts from bioplastics.

3. DEELVRAGEN

3.1 What are packing pinda’s used for?

Packing peanuts are a loose-fill packaging and cushioning object used during transportation. Packing peanuts get their name from the resemblance in shape and size of a peanut. The packing peanuts protect products against breakage. They can be reused many times with little to no loss in protection for the products shipped. Packing peanuts are favorable because of their very light weight.They were made in the 60's and used frequently during the first few decades, but the use of packing peanuts declined since the 90's because of their enviromental impact.

Today they are mostly used for heavy or very fragile products, when substitutes will not guarantee the same amount of protection.

3.2 What are packing pinda’s made of?

Packing peanuts are originally made from polystyrene resin. When they were first developed it was made from 100% virgin polystyrene, since the mid-90's recycled polystyrene packing peanuts have also been available. In later years there have also been cornstarch based packing peanuts. These packing peanuts have the same look and feel as polystyrene resin packing peanuts but are more expensive because of the higher weight and manufacturing costs.

3.3 How are packing pinda’s made?

3.4 What are the color indications for packing pinda’s?

There are three color variations of packing peanuts: white, green and pink. The colors of the packing peanuts indicate what material they are made from. White packing peanuts are made from 100% virgin polystyrene resin, green packing peanuts are made from 70% or more recycled polystyrene resin and pink packing peanuts indicates a antistatic agent has been used in the peanuts (An antistatic agent is a compound used for treatment of materials or their surfaces in order to reduce or eliminate buildup of static electricity).

4. RANDVOORWAARDEN

4.1 What do I want to achieve?

I want to make a more sustainable solution to packing peanuts. The peanuts will be more sustainable by using renewable and recyclable materials.

4.2 What do the packing peanuts need to abide by?

• The packing peanuts will protect any object against breakage.

• The packing peanuts will be made from renewable materials in bioplastic.

• The packing peanuts will not grow mold.

• The packing peanuts will be reusable.

• The packing peanuts will be as close to normal packing peanuts weight as possible (usually around 30 grams per litre)

• The packing peanuts will be flexible.

• The packing peanuts will be water resistant.

• The peanuts will be heat resistant for heat under 45 degrees.

In this week, we’ll work on exploring material properties and experimenting with these properties. Material properties can change depending on the state of the material and each of these states offers different venues for experiments. For the making assignment, we’ll focus on turning 2D into 3D with the use of the laser cutter. You will create a sample book which displays manners in which a flat sheet can be transformed into a 3D surface by cutting cleverly and exploring this within one set of assigned contrasting material properties such as soft-hard, organic-geometric, flexible-rigid, transparent-opaque etc.

Core concepts: material engagement, material behaviour, affordances, material dialogues

Create your own sample book in which you address the following aspects:

· Explore what the assigned contrast in material properties entails (this can be in the form of mindmaps, collages, moodboards etc.)

· Explore what the available flat sheets materials offer and what material(s) would suit your assignment best (share your results with each other). You can also bring your own material(s).

· Show iterations on the process, work towards a range of experiments that explores the two extremes of your contrast and various stages in between. Document your process and use a template to document the material properties, machine and settings used.

· Bundle your experiments in a sample book which displays your material exploration. Your sample book contains your interpretation of the assigned contrast, your experiments with various materials and techniques (at least 2 iterations with several gradations), and your final range of gradually moving from one extreme of the contrast towards the other end of the contrast (at least 5 gradations).

· Your sample book displays experimenting with the laser cutter. Use the laser cutter at least for one iteration with several gradations.

· Bookbinding is part of the process of creating your sample book.

4.1 What is tough or fragile?

Moodboard

I made a mood board based on tough and fragile. In the mood board I made a distinction between tough and fragile material and shape. Fragile materials are often thin-walled and consist of many strings and lines. Fragile objects often have a lighter color palette, or even transparent and shimmering. Rough consists of thick materials and solid shapes. Rough objects often look darker, or completely black.

4.2 How does a lasercut machine work?

Types of materials The lasercutter can cut many types of differnt materials such as: Wood, plexiglass, plastics (PP), cardboard, leather, vilt, rubber, silicone.

The lasercutter can NOT cut materials such as: fur, PVC, chlorine materials, metal, stone, glass.

What tough and fragile materials can i use in the lasercut machine ? Tough: wood (multiplex), PP or other plastics Inbetween: cloth, cardboard, leather Fragile: paper

Types of cuts The lasercutter can make four different kinds of cuts: normal cutting (cuts through and through), kiss cutting (cuts partially through the material), engraving (cuts the surface of the object) and dotted/clashed line (cuts in dots or lines).

Speed and power There's many options on the lasercutter. Most importantly are the the speed and the power. The lasercut machine has a variaty of known settings for materials but if your material is not in the database then you have to manualy set your settings.

Order of cutting You can divide your cutting lines in the lasercut program. This way you can make different types of cuts for different lines. Caution: You must always cut the inner lines of your design first, if the outer cuts are made first you can have your design shift in the machine and your inner lines will be out of place.

Files to use The program in which the lasercut machine works can only read illustrator08 files.

4.3 Testing for fragile and tough shapes

Test 01 In test 01, I looked at how patterns and cutouts can make a material more fragile. I made ten different cutouts for this. I looked at whether a material can be made fragile by cutting lines and blocks and whether it makes a difference if the lines / blocks are closer together or further apart. And lastly I tested if it makes a difference whether there are many cutouts or not.

The material used for the test is folding carton. The material set for this on the laser cutter is paper 300 grams. Everything is cut at a speed of 100mm per second.

Results of the test • The thicker the lines inbetween the cuts the stronger it gets. • Round cuts provide more support than straight cuts. • The more cuts there are the more fragile it becomes • The bigger the cuts are the more fragile it becomes • The more material there is does not always mean the stronger it gets.

4.4 Making tough and fragile shapes.

Going forth with the center pattern of test cutouts 6-10 from the photo above I made fragile and tough patterns. I made five different variants of the pattern, with the most tough and most fragile variants of the pattern I could make. I made two versions of all the variants, one made from plastic (PP, 0,5mm) and one from the same material used in the test. The plastic versions are more tough than the paper ones.

Lasercut setting

Most tough The most tough this pattern can be is to have no pattern at all, or to have it be very small.

Second most tough The second most tough pattern has the pattern in a bigger scale with cuts that are far apart.

In-between tough and fragile In-between tough an fragile is a medium big pattern with cut outs.

Second most fragile The second to most fragile pattern have many small cuts close to each other.

Most fragile The most fragile variant of the pattern has many small cut outs close to each other.

4.5 Making a dodecahedron

To illustrate the toughness and fragileness of the patterns i made them into a dodecahedron. All the patterns can be used to make the dodecahedron, for the example beneath it's made from the second to most fragile pattern. The cutting settings are the same as above.

Making the patterns into a shape gives it more strength. It makes even the second to most fragile pattern tough. It can be bend in and hold form.

The model is now fixed with tape, this can be improved in a subsequent model with folding edges, or by making separate pieces of the 5 corners and securing them together with connecting pieces (such as the parts during the Studio Overvelde workshop).

4.6 Binding

To bind everything together I made a case that fits all the samples.

The material used for the case is PP 0,5mm - white. I cut out the case on the lasercut machine and used three different types of cuts: normal cuts, dotted lines and engraving. I cut the outer shape, made dotted lines on the parts that needed to bend and engraved the letters on the top.

Settings

The case is folded on all the dotted lines and has joining pieces on the sides to make it fit together without the use of another material.

How can you make letters into lines in illustrator? The program for the lasecutter can only read lines so you need to convert letters into lines for them to be able to be cut. You can make letters into lines by pressing COMMAND + SHIFT + O in illustrator.

4.7 Zine

Produce a class zine on the RISO printer together, 2 people will be editors this week. Individual contributions in the form of zine spreads. Write a text of approx. 150 words and create your own image.

Reflect on your process and discuss how you engage in a dialogue with the material through experimenting. How do the materials and the techniques you apply shape your thinking about the design? What kind of tools do you use in various stages of your creative process and how do they each facilitate different engagements, how do they help establish new though.

We gebruiken donkerblauw papier (blueprint) met daarop witte inkt. Dit geeft het idee van een blueprint. Geen foto's maar technische tekeningen met lijnen. Wat jullie ook maken voor de wekelijkse opdracht bijvoorbeeld.

The illustration is supposed to resemble a living hinge pattern. Which clearly did not work out so well ..

1.1 Introdag: Studio Overvelde

Maandag 3 februari Studio Overvelde is een Nederlands design lab dat specialiseert in wiskundige benaderingen en zogenaamde 'architected materials'. Ze maken interactieve innovaties met als doel mensen te stimuleren om wetenschap, technologie en kunst nader te ontdekken. Tijdens de workshop hebben wij een methode geleerd om door middel van patronen verschillende vormen te maken. De gehele vormen konden worden opgebouwd met meerdere kleinere modules. Dit was mogelijk met verschillende materialen, plastic en papier. De plastic vormen waren steviger dan de papieren vormen en konden daardoor op een grotere schaal gemaakt worden.

1.2 Workshop letterpress van de Grafische Werkplaat Amsterdam

Dinsdag 4 februari

The workshop at the Grafische werkplaats Amsterdam learned us how to make posters using letterpress techniques.

1.3 Excursie en workshop van het Textielmuseum Tilburg

Woensdag 5 februari

1.4 Meet de Maker

Donderdag 6 februari

Tijdens de Meet de maker van week 1 hebben wij ons allemaal voorgesteld als maker aan de hand van een object. Iedereen had andere objecten meegenomen, van Britt der werkboeken tot Kim’s kleedje. Ik heb mezelf voorgesteld aan de hand van mokken die ik heb verzameld over de jaren heen. Ik hou heel erg van reizen en de culturen in andere landen. Wat dit voor relatie heeft met interieur en producten.

1.5 Safetyzine

Vrijdag 7 februari t/m dinsdag 11 februari • Learn to operate a machine in the Makerslab. • Describe how to do this safely•Explain this to others in a paper tutorial printed with riso. • Publish all tutorials in a communal zine that will be handed out to all new visitors. • Create a quiz for new visitor.

What is a RISO-printer? A RISO printer prints each color layer separately. The RISO-printer is mostly used for print runs between 50 and 10.000 copies. An extensive RISO-guide from the university of illinois can be found here.

How does a RISO printer work? A how-to-use guide made by 2020 Makerslab can be found here.

Desiree and I examined the vacuumformer and lasercutter for the safetyzine. We conducted informal interviews with the makerslabbers, Loes, Micky and Sam. We had three questions we wanted answered for the safetyzine: How can you hurt yourself, how can you hurt the machine and how do you avoid annoying fellow users and staff. The safetyzine got illustrations of the machines so they're easily recognized with extra detailed illustrations of important parts of the machine. Each machine has two A5 pages in the safetyzine in the colors pink and blue. The paper for the zine was white.

Special thanks to Loes and Cees for answering our questions about the RISO-printer, vacuum former and the lasercutter.

Waarom is die onderste niet ook een presentatie ? Ja geen idee, ik snap Heel weinig van technologie .

5. RECEPTEN

5.1 Tools used

The tools needed to make these bioplastics are a pot, a spoon or fork, a stove, a measuring scale, a measuring cup, a blender, a mixer, a mold/sheet and the materials named in the recipes for the experiments.

5.2 Materials

The materials used in all the recipes are alginate, calcium chloride, corn starch, gelatine, glycerine, honey, potato starch, tapioca starch and water.

6. Alginate recipes

6.1 Alginate Foil

Tools Measuring scale Blender Glass plate Spray bottle

Ingredients 12g Alginate 30g glycerine 400g water 10g sunflower oil (used: olive oil) Spray bottle with calcium chloride

Method Mix the alginate, glycerine and oil together and slowly add the water while mixing to avoid lumps. Leave the mix overnight to take out air bubbles. Cast the mixture on glass with an approximate height of 3mm. Spray calcium chloride over the sheet once after casting and again after a few minutes. Leave the sheet to dry for a couple days.

Material properties

Conclusion The alginate foil is strong against pulling forces and will not tear when bended. However it is also very fragile against tearing when in contact with a sharp object. In this form it is not usable for protection.

7. Corn starch recipes

7.1 Corn starch sheet

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Corn starch 20g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 80g Water

Method Mix the corn starch, glycerine and vinegar together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the msterial. NOTE: when the material feels colder than the air temperature it means it's still drying.

Material properties

NOTE 1 Adding less glycerine will give a less flexible variant

NOTE 2 When trying to make a thicker sheet this mixture will tear while drying. The material will still have the same properties.

Conclusion The corn starch recipe has almost all the qualities I'd want in a foam pinda, only it is not suitable for thicker pieces. It is also more heavy than prevered.

7.2 Corn Starch Foam

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Whisk Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Corn starch 10g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 20g Soap 80g Water

Method Mix the corn starch, glycerine and vinegar together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, add the soap and whisk it for another couple minutes until it has formed bubbles. Cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the material. NOTE: Unlike other starch recipes, this will not feel cold anymore after a couple hours.

Material properties

NOTE 01 This sheet has a small thickness, if you want to make a thicker sheet it is recommended to put the sheet in the freezer after casting. This will cool down the mixture more quickly and will prevent the lower layer from becoming set.

Conclusion This material is almost usable for foam pinda's, it's not thick enough and the weight is still a little too high. It is preverable for it's easy discard process, it will break down in warm water and go through the sink or you can throw it in the groenbak.

8. Gelatine

8.1 Gelatine foam

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Whisk Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 90ml Gelatine 30ml Glycerine 20ml Soap 120ml Water

Method Mix the gelatine and glycerine together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, add the soap and whisk it for another couple minutes until it has formed bubbles. Cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the material.

Material properties

NOTE 01 The material has a height of a couple mm's. The lower layer of the material has set back to it's properties before it was whisked. This can be prevented by storing the mixture in the freezer immediately after mixing or making a thinner sheet.

Conclusion The material properties of the top layer of the material are almost ideal. When executed better it might become perfect for a packing peanut.

8.2 No heat gelatine

Tools Bowl Mixer Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 90ml Gelatine 30ml Glycerine 20ml Soap 120ml Water

Method Mix the gelatine and glycerine together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mixture and use a mixer for a few minutes. Stop once all the ingredients are completely mixed together. The mixture will turn into a grainy sticky material. The grains stick to each other but can be pulled apart.

Material properties

Further application

Shaping the material into small balls and heating them for 10 seconds in the microwave will make the material harder and less sticky to other surfaces.

Conclusion The material has the properties to protect an product but will also likely stick to the product. The material can be cleaned off of the product but that's not what you want a costumer to have to do. The heated version is still too unreliable to use.

8.3 Honey Gelatine Foam

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Mixer Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 100ml Gelatine 100ml Glycerine 50ml Honey +/- 5ml Soap 50ml Water

Method Mix the gelatine and water together and let it swell for a few minutes, and do the same to the honey and glycerine. Mix both mixtures together and heat it until the glyxerine has fully disolved. Add the soap to the mix and use a mixer for a few minutes. The mix is done when it starts to stick to the hooks of the mixer. Cast the mixture into a mold or glass plate and let it cool down in the freezer. Optional Honey does mold after a few days, to prevent this add +/- 5ml of an antibacterial to the mix.

Material properties

NOTE 01 Once the material has been mixed, it can be heated again without losing any 'foamness' and be recasted.

Conclusion This material is near perfect for packing peanuts. The gelatine foam sticks slightly to each other and might leave open spaces in boxes when shuffled (if it keeps sticking to each other). Apart from this, the material is very light in weight and will bend when pressed. It can be disposed of by disolving it in warm water or disposing of it in the groenbak.

9. Potato starch recipes

9.1 potato starch sheet

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Potato starch 20g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 80g Water

Method Mix the potato starch, glycerine and vinegar together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the msterial. NOTE: when the material feels colder than the air temperature it means it's still drying.

Material properties

Conclusion This material is less flexible than the corn starch. It is too hard to use for packing peanuts and might scratch other products when used in transport.

9.2 Potato starch foam

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Whisk Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Potato starch 10g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 20g Soap 80g Water

Method Mix the potato starch, glycerine and vinegar together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, add the soap and whisk it for another couple minutes until it has formed bubbles. Cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the material. NOTE: Unlike other starch recipes, this will not feel cold anymore after a couple hours

Material properties

Conclusion The material completely shrank and dryed into small pieces. This might be prevented by making a thicker layer. - Unfit for packing peanuts -

9.3 No heat potato starch

Tools Bowl Mixer Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Potato starch 10g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 20g Soap 80g Water

Method Mix the potato starch, glycerine, vinegar and soap together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mixture and use a mixer for a few minutes. Stop once the mixture has risen to a foam like mixture and put it into the freezer.

NOTE 01 The material is strong and foam like when it's still at a freezing temperature, however when it heats up it will become fluid again.

Further application When you let it dry for a couple days it will turn into a thick snow like powder.

Material properties

Conclusion Very much usable for a packing peanut on Antartica. In europes climate? Not so much.

10. Tapioca starch

10.1 Tapioca starch sheet

Tools Pot Spoon or fork Stove Measuring scale Mold/sheet

Ingredients 20g Tapioca starch 20g Glycerine 10g Vinegar 80g Water

Method Mix the tapioca starch, glycerine and vinegar together and let it swell for a few minutes. Pour the water in the mix and heat it to approx. 90 degrees (Celcius) for 5-10 minutes. Once the mixture has thickened, cast it into a mold or plaster it over a glass/acrylic plate. Let it dry for a few days before taking it out and when needed stick it down to prevent bending of the msterial. NOTE: when the material feels colder than the air temperature it means it's still drying.

Material properties

Conclusion Tapioca is the most hard of all the starch recipes. It is not usable for packing peanuts because it might damage the products while in transport.

11. References

11.1 Recipes

Bioplastic Cook Book https://issuu.com/nat_arc/docs/bioplastic_cook_book_3

Miriam Ribul cookbook https://issuu.com/miriamribul/docs/miriam_ribul_recipes_for_material_a

Bioplastic - Tools and Recipes https://issuu.com/johanviladrich/docs/bioplastic

Research Book Bioplastic https://issuu.com/juliettepepin/docs/bookletbioplastic

Alginate folie by Loes Bogers https://class.textile-academy.org/2020/loes.bogers/files/recipes/alginatefoil/

The CHEMARTS Cookbook https://shop.aalto.fi/media/filer_public/3b/bf/3bbf53d7-347a-4ca4-a6b1-2479cfde39c2/aaltoartsbooks_thechemartscookbook.pdf

11.2 Examples

Biofabrication materials (Bioplastics, visleer, fruitleer, gegroeide materialen) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Lm147nvWkxxmPf5Oh2wU5a8eonpqHCVc/view

Food for thought (apprentenship verslag) http://www.daniellewilde.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/SDU-Design_FoodForThought_24June2018.pdf

11.3 Info

Bioplastic cookbook for ritual healing from petrochemical landscapes by Tiare Ribeaux http://bioplastic-cookbook.schloss-post.com